New guy trying to wrap my head around door rust issue???
#12
03-22-2010 | 10:00 PM
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Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: IL
Tell you what I did to fix and stop mine from rusting.(along with small rot hole in rocker below the doors) ....first I popped the interior door panel off and cleaned and painted a couple nice thick coats of zero-rust (por 15 works too) in the very bottom seam to seal it up at the seam and made sure the drain holes were clear.
Then I took a wire brush and ground all the rust I could out of the lower bottom inner lip then sanded the ourtside and wire brushed it as well.... then I slopped on some navel jelly to help remove the hard to reach rush followed by the rust converter....
After all the prep work was done I went to habor frieght and bought like 10 tubes of the two part epoxy (looks like jbweld but clear) jbweld would work too....I slopped it in the inside door lip all along the bottom in a couple coats nice and thick....then did the outside where there was rust...
Waited a good 24 hours and then used a sanding block and file to get it looking smooth and straight...
I then primed and painted and followed it up with two coats of hurculiner dabbed on with paint brush only up to the lower bend/bodyline (about 5 inches up from bottom covering the inside door sill making it a non slip surface) I did this to my passenger side last fall and it completly stopped any rust through the whole buffalo winter and all the accompanying road salt...I didnt get to coat the driver side with hurculiner so there is some slight surface rust on the door rocker surface because of it...But I will fix that soon.
I should mention the po used bondo and it was wet under the paint causing bubbling and more rust...I ground all of that out and used only the epoxy and a little med hair fiberglass for the two golf ball sized holes after spraying the inside with rust converter/sealer)
Then I took a wire brush and ground all the rust I could out of the lower bottom inner lip then sanded the ourtside and wire brushed it as well.... then I slopped on some navel jelly to help remove the hard to reach rush followed by the rust converter....
After all the prep work was done I went to habor frieght and bought like 10 tubes of the two part epoxy (looks like jbweld but clear) jbweld would work too....I slopped it in the inside door lip all along the bottom in a couple coats nice and thick....then did the outside where there was rust...
Waited a good 24 hours and then used a sanding block and file to get it looking smooth and straight...
I then primed and painted and followed it up with two coats of hurculiner dabbed on with paint brush only up to the lower bend/bodyline (about 5 inches up from bottom covering the inside door sill making it a non slip surface) I did this to my passenger side last fall and it completly stopped any rust through the whole buffalo winter and all the accompanying road salt...I didnt get to coat the driver side with hurculiner so there is some slight surface rust on the door rocker surface because of it...But I will fix that soon.
I should mention the po used bondo and it was wet under the paint causing bubbling and more rust...I ground all of that out and used only the epoxy and a little med hair fiberglass for the two golf ball sized holes after spraying the inside with rust converter/sealer)
#13
03-22-2010 | 10:04 PM
#14
03-22-2010 | 10:06 PM
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Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 85
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From: IL
So I am thinking if I get the lower door skins and pay a body shop to replace and repaint would be my best option?
So do you think I need part 14 or 15? Can I get by with just part 15?
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=16
Oops, answered my own question. For Quad cab I need part 15.
Last edited by Whaack; 03-22-2010 at 10:11 PM.
#15
03-22-2010 | 10:13 PM
#16
03-23-2010 | 12:07 AM
Champion
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 8
From: Western NY,
In related experience the road salt really tried to do a number on my pershing auto front bumper and grill (which rusted often even with polishing and waxing about 4 times thoughout the winter...(plastic chrome grill has even started pitting and its only 7 months old.... there really is a difference in quality sometimes between the cheap and the oem stuff...Hopefully the replacement panel are made of decent steel? If you do use the panels make sure you coat all the welding well with a sealer inside the door or it will rust even faster...
#17
03-23-2010 | 01:15 AM
Champion
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,811
Likes: 2
From: Ft Campbell, KY/TN
There is a good book in autozone about how to paint your car. It goes over from just buffing and waxing to a FULL RESTORATION. costs 25 bucks.
The only tools you need is elbow grease. Maybe a dremel. But if you have air tools, it makes it easier. I got a 33 gallon compressor at sears on sale with an impact wrench, air ratchet and blowgun. All i need is a water separator and spray gun, and I can redo my tailgate.
The only tools you need is elbow grease. Maybe a dremel. But if you have air tools, it makes it easier. I got a 33 gallon compressor at sears on sale with an impact wrench, air ratchet and blowgun. All i need is a water separator and spray gun, and I can redo my tailgate.
#18
03-23-2010 | 01:21 AM
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
Who said anything about bondo?...I only mentioned it when I stated I removed it....many body shops use epoxies for repair....hell newer exotic cars even use it to bond metal body panels to other materials....Its a good alternative when welding is not possible or unaffordable...
In related experience the road salt really tried to do a number on my pershing auto front bumper and grill (which rusted often even with polishing and waxing about 4 times thoughout the winter...(plastic chrome grill has even started pitting and its only 7 months old.... there really is a difference in quality sometimes between the cheap and the oem stuff...Hopefully the replacement panel are made of decent steel? If you do use the panels make sure you coat all the welding well with a sealer inside the door or it will rust even faster...
In related experience the road salt really tried to do a number on my pershing auto front bumper and grill (which rusted often even with polishing and waxing about 4 times thoughout the winter...(plastic chrome grill has even started pitting and its only 7 months old.... there really is a difference in quality sometimes between the cheap and the oem stuff...Hopefully the replacement panel are made of decent steel? If you do use the panels make sure you coat all the welding well with a sealer inside the door or it will rust even faster...
#19
03-23-2010 | 09:40 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Haha! The guy I bought the truck from was REALLY proud of those stickers! He had them custom made to match the factory decals.
So I am thinking if I get the lower door skins and pay a body shop to replace and repaint would be my best option?
So do you think I need part 14 or 15? Can I get by with just part 15?
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=16
Oops, answered my own question. For Quad cab I need part 15.
So I am thinking if I get the lower door skins and pay a body shop to replace and repaint would be my best option?
So do you think I need part 14 or 15? Can I get by with just part 15?
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=16
Oops, answered my own question. For Quad cab I need part 15.
#20
03-23-2010 | 10:08 AM
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Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 85
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From: IL
Ya I like cheaper but it looks like I have to have part #15 because I have the Quad cab otherwise I would get #14.
I am really hoping I can get this fixed for not too much because other than the rust on the doors this thing is almost mint for being 2000.
I am super jacked about it and can't wait to add some custom touches to make it mine. Thanks for the help on here, looking forward to knowing you all more in the coming months!
I am really hoping I can get this fixed for not too much because other than the rust on the doors this thing is almost mint for being 2000.
I am super jacked about it and can't wait to add some custom touches to make it mine. Thanks for the help on here, looking forward to knowing you all more in the coming months!