plenum?
Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 323
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From: North Georgia
welll.... My dad has known him for over 30 years. i have known him for around ten. real nice guy, seems honest but you never know. could be shady
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Leesburg, IN
A death flash will not cover up a plenum leak. If you have a bad plenum leak, and you go get the death flash, you will still get single digit mpg and you will still have oil loss. You plugs will get fouled and your cat will get clogged if you let it go long enough. Please explain to me how the death flash will prevent any of this from happening. It doesn't. I don't know how else to explain it to you guys. If you have a plenum leak, the death flash will not do anything to fix it.
Why would you let them give you a flash if you know the problem is your plenum. You're in control of what repairs happen on your truck, not the dealership. If you know your plenum is shot, and they want to give you a flash, it's on you to correct them or find a better shop to go to.
Why would you let them give you a flash if you know the problem is your plenum. You're in control of what repairs happen on your truck, not the dealership. If you know your plenum is shot, and they want to give you a flash, it's on you to correct them or find a better shop to go to.
Dave
Site Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 28
From: Sioux Falls, SD
I stand corrected I just read Jasonw thread on the death flash. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...explained.html
Dave
Dave
NO: 18-48-98
SUBJECT: Ignition System Cross Fire/Secondary Ignition Wire Induction
NOTE: THIS INFORMATION APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L, OR 5.9L ENGINE.
AB MODELS WILL BE ADDED LATER (NEW PARTS REQUIRED).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit one or more of the following:
Spark knock complaints when the vehicle is under load.
Various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7), especially 5 and/or 8.
Surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45 mph).
Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/disengagement around 45 mph.
NOTE: THIS REROUTING PROCEDURE SHOULD BE PERFORMED BEFORE ANY OTHER MISFIRE, SURGE, OR SPARK KNOCK REPAIRS ARE ATTEMPTED.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves rerouting the coil wire for all engines listed and rerouting the 4, 5, 7, and 8 plug wires for the 5.2/5.9L applications to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A 90O ANGLE.
5.2L AND 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURES
Coil Wire Routing.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap coil wire tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip located along the lower side of the right valve cover.
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths 203 mm (8 in.), 101.5 mm (4 in.), and 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 203 mm (8 in.) and the 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch (Figure 2).
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
No. 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the valve cover.
Route the No. 8 cylinder plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover.
Position the original piece convolute from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
Secure the No. 8 cylinder plug wire and its convolute in place with the hose to wire clip. The small end of the clip is positioned over the convolute. The large end of the clip is fastened to a heater hose .
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE COIL WIRE AND THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.
Install the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal.
No. 4 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
At the three-wire clip (located at the center of the lower side of the right valve cover), keep the two wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 2 cylinder plug wire in the top wire slot and the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle wire slot empty.
At the five-wire clip (located at the right rear lower side of the valve cover), keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in a slot that will obtain the maximum amount of distance allowable from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire (Figure 6). Remove any slack in the No. 4 cylinder plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips.
NOTE: EARLIER MODEL FIVE-WIRE CLIPS LOOK SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT BUT THE SAME WIRING LAYOUT APPLIES.
Route the No. 4 cylinder plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses. On ZJ models this may not be possible due to the location of the bulkhead.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
Install the No. 4 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal . No. 7 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Verify that the No. 7 cylinder plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 3 and the No. 6 tower terminals. This is the original wire routing for 1998 and prior model years.
For 1999 M.Y. vehicles the No. 7 cylinder plug wire was shortened. Reroute the No. 7 cylinder plug wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 6 and the No. 5 tower terminals.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
No. 5 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from its distributor cap terminal.
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
Route the No. 5 cylinder plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
Position the original convolute from the No. 5 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.
3.9L ENGINE
Coil Wire Routing.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the right rear five-wire clip, the center three wire clip and the front one-wire clip on the right valve cover.
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wireis loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths. Two (2) at 101.5 mm (4 in.), and one (1) at 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the two 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
You may want to do this TSB first before any other repairs.
SUBJECT: Ignition System Cross Fire/Secondary Ignition Wire Induction
NOTE: THIS INFORMATION APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L, 5.2L, OR 5.9L ENGINE.
AB MODELS WILL BE ADDED LATER (NEW PARTS REQUIRED).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit one or more of the following:
Spark knock complaints when the vehicle is under load.
Various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7), especially 5 and/or 8.
Surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45 mph).
Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/disengagement around 45 mph.
NOTE: THIS REROUTING PROCEDURE SHOULD BE PERFORMED BEFORE ANY OTHER MISFIRE, SURGE, OR SPARK KNOCK REPAIRS ARE ATTEMPTED.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves rerouting the coil wire for all engines listed and rerouting the 4, 5, 7, and 8 plug wires for the 5.2/5.9L applications to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A 90O ANGLE.
5.2L AND 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURES
Coil Wire Routing.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap coil wire tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip located along the lower side of the right valve cover.
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths 203 mm (8 in.), 101.5 mm (4 in.), and 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 203 mm (8 in.) and the 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch (Figure 2).
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
No. 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the No. 8 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the valve cover.
Route the No. 8 cylinder plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover.
Position the original piece convolute from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
Secure the No. 8 cylinder plug wire and its convolute in place with the hose to wire clip. The small end of the clip is positioned over the convolute. The large end of the clip is fastened to a heater hose .
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE COIL WIRE AND THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.
Install the No. 8 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal.
No. 4 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
At the three-wire clip (located at the center of the lower side of the right valve cover), keep the two wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 2 cylinder plug wire in the top wire slot and the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle wire slot empty.
At the five-wire clip (located at the right rear lower side of the valve cover), keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other. Position the No. 4 cylinder plug wire in a slot that will obtain the maximum amount of distance allowable from the No. 8 cylinder plug wire (Figure 6). Remove any slack in the No. 4 cylinder plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips.
NOTE: EARLIER MODEL FIVE-WIRE CLIPS LOOK SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT BUT THE SAME WIRING LAYOUT APPLIES.
Route the No. 4 cylinder plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses. On ZJ models this may not be possible due to the location of the bulkhead.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT THE NO. 4 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 8 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
Install the No. 4 cylinder plug wire to its distributor cap terminal . No. 7 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Verify that the No. 7 cylinder plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 3 and the No. 6 tower terminals. This is the original wire routing for 1998 and prior model years.
For 1999 M.Y. vehicles the No. 7 cylinder plug wire was shortened. Reroute the No. 7 cylinder plug wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the No. 6 and the No. 5 tower terminals.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS, AT LEAST ONE INCH, AWAY FROM THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE.
No. 5 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing.
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from its distributor cap terminal.
Remove the No. 5 cylinder plug wire from the five-wire clip located at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
Route the No. 5 cylinder plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
Position the original convolute from the No. 5 cylinder plug wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE NO. 5 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE IS SECURE AND AWAY FROM THE NO. 7 CYLINDER PLUG WIRE. MAKE CERTAIN IT WILL NOT FALL DOWN AND CONTACT THE CYLINDER HEAD AND/OR EXHAUST COMPONENTS.
3.9L ENGINE
Coil Wire Routing.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove the coil wire from the right rear five-wire clip, the center three wire clip and the front one-wire clip on the right valve cover.
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one-wire clips. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wireis loose from the valve cover (before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths. Two (2) at 101.5 mm (4 in.), and one (1) at 82.5 mm (3.25 in.).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the one-wire clips. Install the 82.5 mm (3.25 in.) section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the two 101.5 mm (4 in.) sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This procedure may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover (before the clips are attached to the valve cover studs).
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold, in front of the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: THE COIL WIRE MUST BE A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) INCH AWAY FROM ANY OTHER IGNITION WIRES. THIS MAY REQUIRE THAT THE COIL WIRE BE ROUTED UNDER VACUUM AND/OR WIRE HARNESSES IN THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil wire tower terminal.
Position the original piece of coil wire convolute so it protects the wire against chafing with components at the rear of the engine.
You may want to do this TSB first before any other repairs.
Last edited by master tech; Mar 28, 2010 at 07:08 PM. Reason: links
Grand Champion
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,099
Likes: 6
From: Colorado
I would say spark knock is no where near 100% plenum. There are tons of things that can cause spark knock/ping. Poor timing, plugs, fuel, tune-up, PCM, etc... The plenum is only one possible cause.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Pocono's, Pennsylvania
but wouldn't you assume it would be plenum related with oil consumption? I have no loss of power, just knocking that gets worse with acceleration. I only have had the truck a couple months so...unknown how long if ever he previous owner did a tune up. Wires look rusty and dull like they have been there a long time.
Grand Champion
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,971
Likes: 45
From: MAINE
Theres no way around it, The plenum will blow. If you dont get a reienforcment kit (hughes, or APS) It will blow out again. Thees no if ands or buts, your Plenum will blow, and it obviously seems like its blown now....you can do it yourself, its not hard, and the kit from hughes is only 86 bucks plus shipping. Then you dont have to worry about it.
You cant just replace the gasket. There are design flaws, and the dealership knows this.
You cant just replace the gasket. There are design flaws, and the dealership knows this.
