Put the RTV where the rubber front and rear gaskets meeet the larger compressable runner gaskets. Put the runner gaskets in place, then the rubber gaskets down. Lift each edge of the rubber gasket and squeeze a thick line of RTV right at the meeting points and then mush the rubber gasket back in place. When you re install the intake, connect the rubber bypass tune to the intake first and then start it onto the water pump before you try oi get the intake completely into place. Be very careful you don't knock the front or rear rubber gasket loose on install.

And use Blue thread locker on the intake manifold bolts.

 

Thanks to all for the info this a great site. I have one last question how clean do the heads and the bottom flanges of the intake have to be. I scraped and cleaned for along time and used acetone on a rag, but the metal seems to be impregmented with the old gasket its smooth but I am not sure if it is clean enough, can I take a powered wire brush to them?
Thanks in advanced

 

I know i used some gasket eater form the parts store and a dremel with a special head for polishing. Probly not a good thing but we will see. So far no problems.

 

Thank you everyone who responded it was a great help, the truck runs so much better and it does not ping anymore!!!!

 

Better performance & better mpg, gotta love it

 

Ok, so forgive me I never took an auto class in high school and my dads idea of helping me with my truck is "take it to a mechanic". Go figure. But is that oil supposed to be pooled up in that engine like that or is that part of the plenum leak? Sorry for such a dumb question but I am self teaching myself auto mechanic 101.

 

this area is where the oil SHOULD be. When the plenum gasket breaks, this oil underneath seeps into the intake manifold, which is then pulled into the combustion chamber. So, yes.

 

Got it! I thought that is how it worked, just making sure!

 

That oil is pooled in the little dips that don't have a drain hole for it to get back to the pan.