I was wondering if anyone has a free download for the 1500 4x4 1998 ram service manual.

Also, could anyone give a step by step process of replacing the left side head gasket. Its slowely leaking radiator fluid down the front left side of the block where the block meets the head. Never over heat or anything, just think the gasket is shot. No water in the oil either. Thanks.

 

The 2001 service manual in the DIY section here will work for your purpose.

Just label where every single nut, bolt, pushrod, and rocker arm came from and you'll be fine.

Be careful when cleaning the head surface and block surface. Those are precision machined so nothing too abrasive, and no wire wheels!

 

To add: the most important steps are the re torquing of the head bolts and manifold bolts, do not deviate from the service manual, and let the head bolts sit for about 15 mins and then torque them again before you do the final button up. All head bolts must go back in their orginal holes if you choose to reuse them.

Lots of rust penetrate on the exhaust manifold bolts, start a few days before.

 

why as far as the bolts having to go back in the same holes and why do u need to wait, i could see after running the engine up to temp then having to retorque them then.

Please teach me squirrel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Reusing the head bolts is fine so long as they are not torque to yield bolts. They also dont need to go back in the same place so long as they are the correct length.

 

Ruredee,

I respectfully disagree, here's why:

Each bolt in the head has formed (or better, been deformed) by heat and excessive pressures of the combustion process, as well as mating with the threads of that particular hole in the block. Slight warping of the head bolts can occur. If you are going to reuse them and you mix them up randomly, you risk uneven seating pressure on the head gasket and another leak down the line. With newer head bolts it doesn't really matter as none have been warped or mated to the threads yet.

I learned this tip from folks that have torn engines down tons more times than I have, and if it only takes a little extra time and a number from sharpie on the bolt head to be sure, why not do it? If your method has worked great for you in the past, that's cool. I've known several guys that have done that before with no issue, and 1 or 2 that it might have been the cause of their failure. If there's a way to do it that ensures a better end result time after time, then I'm going offer that up so this poor guy doesn't have to tear back into it again because he was the unfortunate minority.

Yakkier,

Bolts are designed to take a certain load. As you apply torque to them, the threads stretch slightly to create frictional clamping force to the object they have been threaded into, which is why bolts are almost always a softer material than the object they are threaded into. For instance brass into aluminum, mild steel to cast iron, etc. That's also why more than likely a bolt will shear rather than destroy the threads in a object. Anyway, as the bolt gets torqued, there are minute flaws in the threads as well as the mating threads that add extra friction and cause a bolt to stop before it reaches the optimum torque, (which is why you should always clean threads and even chase them before you reinstall, to remove debris). Often this is no more than an 1/8th of a turn difference, but that can be significantly less torque on that one bolt. After the bolts initial torque it begins to stretch and loosen around the imperfections that caused it to stop prematurely and you can check it about 15 min later and torque it down more, even though you did nothing else to the bolt or torque wrench.

The typical replacement head gasket comes pre-pressed with silicone sealant, getting the head to the proper torque before the first heat cycle insures the best seal of the head gasket silicone against leaks. If you take the time to re-torque every bolt until none of them take any more torque before you heat cycle, you don't need to re-torque after a heat cycle, unless you're running a boosted application and you need to be 100% sure. Also, if you dunk the threads of the head bolts in motor oil, you get a more uniform and accurate torque. As the engine heats up and bakes the oil, it turns to carbon and acts as a thread locker of sorts. Re-torque it and you "break" that lock.

It's also a heck of a lot easier than taking the valve covers and exhaust manifolds or headers back off to re-torque the head bolts.

 

Awesome thanks man, +10

 

thanks for the help. Now, although i have the service manual now could you give breif direction of step by step process? I dont want to take anything apart that the manual says is necessary that actually isnt. Do i have to take the intake manifold off to take the head off? is there any tip to removing the distributer and plugs to know where each goes back? thanks!

 

Yes, you need to take off the intake manifold. Duh.

Number the plug wires with the cylinder they go in. Change the plugs, a new set costs $15.

 

Now, now Purpl, be nice. We've all been a n00b before. I remember just last year when your nuts dropped torquing down a lug nut. Just kidding, man.


Yes, unfortunately you'll have to remove a lot of stuff, Essentially your taking that side of the engine down to a short block and anything that connects to or obstructs the head will need to come out.

Steve05ram360 has a guide in the DIY section here about removing the intake manifold, from there it's just a couple of other small items. Unfortunately there are no pictures as the switch to vbulletin deleted them. I believe Purpl was going to do a DIY, perhaps he could donate some pics to Steve to get his guide updated until Purpl finishes his?