No confusion here. Camber is not caster. Caster is the angle between the pivot line (in a car - an imaginary line that runs through the center of the upper ball joint to the center of the lower ball joint) and vertical. To adjust caster and nothing else you would adjust the position of the ball joints. Now your factory ball joints are not adjustable so you could look at aftermarket adjustable ball joints. These ball joints will also allow for camber adjustment. The problem with that is they are limited in their adjustment. From there on the keeping cost under control you can look at adjustable control arms. The problem with that is what you are finding is that if you change the position of the differential you change caster. This is a challenge when you lift a vehicle. You can only go so high before you start to run into problems. Your best option which isn't cheap or easy is to cut the knuckle off the axle then reposition it. This would allow you to properly position the differential so that your u-joints are not binding and you get the correct caster angle.

 

It's the bolts on the lower links at your axle. It's the eccentric bolt. Loosen and rotate.
With that 7" lift you should also have the drop bracket installed for your t-case.

 

aubry.......i do have a drop bracket, and my front driveshaft does not bind what so ever. matter of fact i took it out 2 days ago bc i blew a spider gear out the back side of the pumpkin. thats fixed now and the golf ball sized hole i welded a plate to so im all good there.

sungod...why on gods earth would i torch off my knuckle and weld it back on were i want it......umm hahah not happenin..... i KNOW i can adjust the caster by those eccentric bolts on lower arm of control arm axle bracket..... just looking for a walk through of it......never done before......... thats what this thread was for..... dont take what im saying in offence, i mean no harm in it

 

haa, no harm. The point being that there are several ways of doing it. Some ways are better than others. With 7 inches of lift your options are limited. The problem with using the bolts on the LCA is that 1. you are limited in the amount you can adjust and 2. you may be correcting caster, but you are also changing your diff angle at the same time. So what happens is that you create new problems by fixing another. You may be able to get caster close enough to stop the wobble, but your u-joints may shake the teeth out of your head. Another option I have seen guys run is correcting your caster and removing the front drive shaft until you need it.

To actually adjust the axle using the LCA bolt is very simple, but you need a way of measuring the angles and you need to take it to a shop for that.

 

unfortunatly i have any and every tool i think man ever made in my garage and barn but no effing alignment rack lol...oh well i guess its off to pay someone to do it. just thought i could squeek a few degrees out of it myself to eliminate the death wobble and not affect other things

 

if you have an inclinmeter you can put it on a level spot (like the bumpstop pads) and loosen and rotate your "cam bolts" until the meter read 0. unless you want a positive or negative caster then you set it to the degree you want. This will at least get you very close and if you are really that worried about it you can take it to the shop but this is the way they tought us to do it on rigs at school and the way they did it before computers (from what i understand, lucky im not old enough to remeber much of those days hahaha)

 

i want to bring it to positive 4.5 - 5.5 degrees. well i brought it today to one alignment shop and i got fed a bull**** line of "we cant align that here your tires are too big" they said put stock sized tires on it and come back, i laughed and walked out. guess ill try a diff place tomm.

 

It is possible that is the case depending on the equipment. If your tires block the heads from seeing each other then you can't take the measurements. The heads attach to the wheels and your 38s have several more inches of rubber than normal sized tires. You may want to look for a shop that works on RVs or trucks.

How close to zero is your caster now? I assume it must be if you are getting the wobble. You may be able to get 1 degree twisting your axle with your control arm cams, but remember when you do that the more you increase caster you are also pointing your diff more toward the ground which will bind up your u-joints.

 

im not worried abut binding u joints as i removed my driveshaft the other day bc i blew the spider gears through the back of the pumpkin. th carrier, ring, and pinion are the only things left in my diff so nothing is turning. i welded up the hole...filled it wih fluid, and all is good. im looking to do the dana 60 front and 70/80 rear swap ASAP. but locating a set is turning out to be harder than i thought. found matching set for 2000$. i am goin to try a few more shops today and see what i am told, otherwise ill try to dig out the stock tires and rims and look like an idiot on training wheels with 4 foot of wheel wheel space going down the road lol.