Adding gauges, a few questions
#1
Adding gauges, a few questions
Well since I have my trans apart fixing the fron band adjuster, I am going to add some gauges also. I plan on getting trans temp, oil temp, and oil pressure. I thought about a wideband A/G gauge, but couldn't justify the cost for no more than what I use the truck for. Anyway, as far as the gauges go is a full sweep better than a short sweep? And on the oil pressure gauge, would you go mechanical or electrical? And has anyone used one of those oil filter plates for the oil pressure and temp gauge? Or is there a better solution for connecting those sensors? Thanks.
#2
i am new to the dodge world but not new to racing in every car i have ever owned i have always gone with mechanical gauges for the simple fact that there more accurate and theres less crap to deal with like sensors and wires. autometer makes some of the best gauges in the world and i swear by them.i rolled my car 6 times rolled it back on it side and the mechanical gauges still worked. but the down fall is you have oil or water coming into the truck. but either way man make sure you get a trans temp gauge as well.
#4
Typically, the wider the sweep, the more accurate the gauge. Electronic gauges have come a long way over the years and I wouldn't hesitate to use them in all but the most demanding of applications. I added electronic oil and tranny gauges to my pillar and have been very happy with them. No more hassle to mount than a mechanical gauge, in fact, I found it easier to run the sender wires than to run a capillary tube that most mechanical temp gauges require. Here's my setup:
Sender mounted in the tranny pan.
The oil temp sender is mounted in an oil filter adapter that goes between the filter and the filter mount. It has ports for 3 senders, so I could add a pressure gauge if I wanted or use the extra 2 ports for an oil cooler.
Sender mounted in the tranny pan.
The oil temp sender is mounted in an oil filter adapter that goes between the filter and the filter mount. It has ports for 3 senders, so I could add a pressure gauge if I wanted or use the extra 2 ports for an oil cooler.
#6
I would get some full sweep gauges. Although they wont match the factory cluster (who cares about that anyway!), they will be more accurate. I wish I had that mindset when I bought my transmission temperature gauge!
I have an Autometer Sport Comp II (one of the closest look to the factory gauges) short sweep transmission temperature gauge. And I have the sensor in the front servo port in the transmission (let the debate begin!). Really nice gauge.
When you wire the gauges up, you will need power to the gauge, the sender, ground, and power and ground for the lights. The proper way to power the gauge is to tap (using a simple fuse tap) into an ignition ON (like power windows or cluster) fuse in the fuse block, then run that wire to a relay. I'm gonna skip how to wire a relay... The sender goes from the sender to the gauge. One wire, easy as pie. Ground, again, its a ground. For the lights I tapped into the cup holder lights (my gauge is in the cubby hole). Positive was orange and negative was orange with a black tracer.
I have an Autometer Sport Comp II (one of the closest look to the factory gauges) short sweep transmission temperature gauge. And I have the sensor in the front servo port in the transmission (let the debate begin!). Really nice gauge.
When you wire the gauges up, you will need power to the gauge, the sender, ground, and power and ground for the lights. The proper way to power the gauge is to tap (using a simple fuse tap) into an ignition ON (like power windows or cluster) fuse in the fuse block, then run that wire to a relay. I'm gonna skip how to wire a relay... The sender goes from the sender to the gauge. One wire, easy as pie. Ground, again, its a ground. For the lights I tapped into the cup holder lights (my gauge is in the cubby hole). Positive was orange and negative was orange with a black tracer.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Dodgeboy, OEM gauges are not exactly accurate. They are not designed to be. Plus some of us prefer an exact pressure, and more importantly, fluxuations in that pressure under different conditions. Not so much in street applications, I have learned from racing (yes the hard way), if you can get the engine shut down before the pressure drops to zero, you might just save then engine.
#10