MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)
#421
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: North Charleston, SC
Posts: 1,256
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Hey Monte, I wanted to thank you again for all your help yesterday on my transmission thread, I put another pint of fluid in the 46re, that's six quarts, there's no external leaks and it's still not to the top of the fill line. Sometimes when I check it hot in neutral, it's way low on the dipstick and sometimes dosen't register at all. Then I'll check it again and it will be almost to the top fill line. Don't know whats going on. Please advise.
#422
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: North Charleston, SC
Posts: 1,256
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First of all I want to say that I have a tremendous amount of respect for a professional that will take the time to help us average guys, thank you. I didn't want to wast your time so I read all 42 pages, up to now. I have the 47re out of my 96 2500 diesel about 200K miles. I am rebuilding it myself, everything in the main case looked good, very little wear, thought I was wasting my time. Had to have a rebuilder do the OD, I have no way to compress the spring, when I picked it up he showed me the burnt clutches. (1) why would they go bad when all the others look new? (2) I think I read somewhere that you can enlarge a hole in the case to get more fluid back there, if so how big should I drill it? Can you tell me how I can flush my cooler and what to use? I also would like to get rid of the plastic locks on the cooler lines by going to hose. Can you tell me the thread type that gos into the transmission, I have read, again, that a pipe thread can crack the case if put in to tight. This is my first rebuild and I am a bit apprehensive, but I have the FSM and am following it to the letter. Just a note, I stay pretty much in the diesel forums and they talk about replacing the TPS with a potenceometer, I know that is spilled wrong but my spell check doesn't know how to spell it eather. I have links to it if you would like them.
Floyd
Floyd
Your probably talking about drilling the lube holes in the intermediate shaft. Gil younger does that in his kits. I have never done it.
As far as the lines, they make the old style fittings that replace them, pretty sure they are NPT, but the fittings need to be flared a certain way, just any ol fitting may crack the case.
The potentiometer will give you control over how late or early o/d comes in. Since throttle position is what tells the computer when to command o/d, and when not to. I dont know if you can run a set up like that on a 96 and up, the TPS does much more on the late model trucks.
#423
I read all the 43 pages and i think i found the solution to one of my problems.
the first one is that my tranny is not shifting out of second gear till i let go of the gas pedal the solution i found in page 9 or 10 was to replace the governor solenoid. right??
or should i try cleaning it first??
the second problem happens when is cold out and i put in reverse the tranny will make a loud whiny noise.. i read somewhere that it was high pressure but it only happens when the truck is not warmed up
thanks in advance..
the first one is that my tranny is not shifting out of second gear till i let go of the gas pedal the solution i found in page 9 or 10 was to replace the governor solenoid. right??
or should i try cleaning it first??
the second problem happens when is cold out and i put in reverse the tranny will make a loud whiny noise.. i read somewhere that it was high pressure but it only happens when the truck is not warmed up
thanks in advance..
#426
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: North Charleston, SC
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
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2 Posts
I read all the 43 pages and i think i found the solution to one of my problems.
the first one is that my tranny is not shifting out of second gear till i let go of the gas pedal the solution i found in page 9 or 10 was to replace the governor solenoid. right??
or should i try cleaning it first??
the second problem happens when is cold out and i put in reverse the tranny will make a loud whiny noise.. i read somewhere that it was high pressure but it only happens when the truck is not warmed up
thanks in advance..
the first one is that my tranny is not shifting out of second gear till i let go of the gas pedal the solution i found in page 9 or 10 was to replace the governor solenoid. right??
or should i try cleaning it first??
the second problem happens when is cold out and i put in reverse the tranny will make a loud whiny noise.. i read somewhere that it was high pressure but it only happens when the truck is not warmed up
thanks in advance..
Fluid is much more viscous when its cold, which would make the noise more present. i wouldnt worry too much about the noise unless you start having problems.
#427
What did I do
Thanks for being available for questions!
I'm not nearly as adventurous as many on this thread that will disassemble their tranny, but maybe you can help me with two questions: what's wrong with my transmission and did I cause it?
I've got a 2001 1500, 5.9L, 46re tranny, 4WD, 108,000 miles
First, what's wrong: After towing a trailer for about 1000 miles, I had no problems until I started the truck the next day after I returned home. The check engine light came on (don't know the code yet since I'm 30 miles from anywhere!) but two things told me I had a tranny problem. All of this is intermittent. When I select drive, and go to accelerate, it's sluggish at best and at worst it's bucks while attempting to accelerate. When it is acting up, I don't feel like I could ever get any speed. At it's worst, it feels like it is about to lock up. The other problem that says I have a tranny problem is the noise coming from the tranny. It's like gears not meshing. Loud but dull sounding like the gears were made of aluminum. Both of these conditions do not seem related. The noise may be there at the same time as the acceleration problem or may not. It is not there when in park. The only thing that I have found to fix it so it is driveable is to put it in park and shut the engine off for a few seconds and turn it back on. Can you tell anything from my description? The local tranny shop told me by phone that it may be that some bronze shims may have disintegrated and fowled everything in the tranny.......whether that's close or not, I don't know but will cost some $2500 to rebuild. Can you add anything?
My second question is, did I do this? My truck GVWR is 6600 lbs and my GCWR is 12500, and max trailer weight is 7150 lbs. I'm pulling a trailer with GVWR of 4780 and with an ATV weighing about 500 lbs in the bed. It seems to me I'm well within the specs, but even so, is this too much to expect without problems? Reading some of the comments in this tread seems to maybe indicate so. If I get it fixed without your recommended upgrades, will it happen again? Can I expect a standard tranny shop to do any upgrades like you recommend?
Thanks again for your effort.
I'm not nearly as adventurous as many on this thread that will disassemble their tranny, but maybe you can help me with two questions: what's wrong with my transmission and did I cause it?
I've got a 2001 1500, 5.9L, 46re tranny, 4WD, 108,000 miles
First, what's wrong: After towing a trailer for about 1000 miles, I had no problems until I started the truck the next day after I returned home. The check engine light came on (don't know the code yet since I'm 30 miles from anywhere!) but two things told me I had a tranny problem. All of this is intermittent. When I select drive, and go to accelerate, it's sluggish at best and at worst it's bucks while attempting to accelerate. When it is acting up, I don't feel like I could ever get any speed. At it's worst, it feels like it is about to lock up. The other problem that says I have a tranny problem is the noise coming from the tranny. It's like gears not meshing. Loud but dull sounding like the gears were made of aluminum. Both of these conditions do not seem related. The noise may be there at the same time as the acceleration problem or may not. It is not there when in park. The only thing that I have found to fix it so it is driveable is to put it in park and shut the engine off for a few seconds and turn it back on. Can you tell anything from my description? The local tranny shop told me by phone that it may be that some bronze shims may have disintegrated and fowled everything in the tranny.......whether that's close or not, I don't know but will cost some $2500 to rebuild. Can you add anything?
My second question is, did I do this? My truck GVWR is 6600 lbs and my GCWR is 12500, and max trailer weight is 7150 lbs. I'm pulling a trailer with GVWR of 4780 and with an ATV weighing about 500 lbs in the bed. It seems to me I'm well within the specs, but even so, is this too much to expect without problems? Reading some of the comments in this tread seems to maybe indicate so. If I get it fixed without your recommended upgrades, will it happen again? Can I expect a standard tranny shop to do any upgrades like you recommend?
Thanks again for your effort.
#428
Thanks.
I dropped the pan and the fluid was a little burnt. No metal shavings on the magnet. It did have some black sludge.
I cleaned the governor solenoid and the overdrive solenoid with brake cleaner and bolted them back up. The governor solenoid screen had a lot of black sludge in it but it looks clean now.
I didn't refill it with ATF. I want to install a drain plug in the pan first.
A few more questions:
What is the black sludge? What does it indicate?
When you say rebuild, how extensive are you talking? New clutch packs? Just new solenoids, seals, and Sure Cure valves? Or is that something I'll only know once I go through it?
Thanks again.
I dropped the pan and the fluid was a little burnt. No metal shavings on the magnet. It did have some black sludge.
I cleaned the governor solenoid and the overdrive solenoid with brake cleaner and bolted them back up. The governor solenoid screen had a lot of black sludge in it but it looks clean now.
I didn't refill it with ATF. I want to install a drain plug in the pan first.
A few more questions:
What is the black sludge? What does it indicate?
When you say rebuild, how extensive are you talking? New clutch packs? Just new solenoids, seals, and Sure Cure valves? Or is that something I'll only know once I go through it?
Thanks again.
Am I doing any further damage buy continuing to drive it?
Should I replace the overdrive solenoid to get a little more life out of it?
If there some kind of flush you recommend to run through the system to get rid of all the sludge or is it a case of once the clutches start burning, there's no stopping it?
Should I just bit the bullet and start the rebuild?
Thanks
#430
Yeah. I towed a really heavy boat 1200 miles with 176K miles on the original transmission. Monte says the black sludge is from the fiber clutch plates, gray is from steel.