http://www.allusasupercenter.com/Pro...tCode=P5007852
$445, non EGR.

Also, a good read on comparing the 4bbl intake, and the 2bbl:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=30083
Compares all these MPI intakes for magnum engines. Talks about the 4bbl intake for guys with nasty 408s.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...e/?Ns=Rank|Asc

Don't forget to buy this intake installation kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007638/
Comes with all hardware.

--Dan

 

so tempting! still torn on this or the hughes kit

 

The only thing about the hughes kit is that the brackets for the fuel rail don't fit so well. The M1 kit has better brackets.

Also, the M1 has a spot for the IAT sensor, the hughes requires you to relocate it.

 

Link you posted of the $445 M1/2BBL, the picture shown is actually the EGR version. Its identical to the 2bbl I recently removed though part # is different. There will be a 2nd set of #s for both the egr & non egr M1s that will work on our Magnums. #s were changes in mid/late 90s IIRC.
The # on my 2bbl is p4510016.

Should be able to find used M1s in the 300-350 range & they will include the install kit.

Hughes intake seems to be more suited to stock or near stock mtrs.
M1/2bbl, will have a powerband in the 2500-6000rpm range. Must have a better cam with power range that compliments that. Higher stall tc a must also (to match cam), better heads will help also.

M1/4bbl, expect power band to be higher, 3000-6500rpm. I wouldnt add a 4bbl unless a very serious 360 running boost. Or "nasty" 408na, or if running boost
The 4bbl on my 408 is ported/matched/decked & has specialty heat reflecting & releasing coats on top/bottom.

 

Ahhhhh,

so the M1 is not good if you are trying to build for torque and hauling.

KRC RV cam or 1.7s
Hughes heads with 2.02 intake valves and larger exh (1.68 iirc)
Longtubes w/ high flow cat
SCT tune
24# 4 Hole injectors (already have them, but not installed)
MSD (Already have it, but not installed)

I was just trying to get more bang for the buck. I had originally heard that the M-1 was more for race applications. But some people say that is just jibberish. But I compare it to when I had a camaro with a dual plane intake stock heads and stock cam. Then i went to a 280 duration camshaft, 1.6RRs, Trick Flow heads, and a single plane intake with a 4bbl carb.

I really want to match things correctly for torque: and this seems like a great article on that:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9197.0
^^ but he is using the stock intake, and stock RT heads. Just modified kegger and some shorties.

Looks like the answer is right there but I still have burning questions:
If I did that, what intake? SHould I go with 1.7RRs or 1.6? If 1.6, is the friction reduction even worth the 350 bucks? Are shorty headers really a waste of money, but are longtubes overkill? i bought shorties for my 1996, but I don't think they will fit on my 2001.

ALso, where the hell can i get unported Mopar magnum r/t heads!?!!?

 

awesome thread keep the info comin!

 

Build it for the way you plan to use it

If your not going to push the mtr above 5000rpms, I would not get an M1.
RPM where peak torque is made will move up by about 200rpms, with a cam (depending on specs) it will be close to 400rpm higher.
1.6rr dont add much in the way of hp/trq.
They do allow you to spin much higher rpms which with the right cam will make much more hp/trq.
Most cams, as duro goes up, lift is added too. Can add higher lift cam without threat of valve/piston contact up to a point. Then need to add deeper relief to pistons.

1.7rr will add a bit of hp/trq pretty well off idle to redline
They restrict max redline to about 5400rpms, push it past that, very good chance a roller tip will slip off the edge of a valve stem.
They also limit the amount of lift you can have in a cam.
Cams rated for our Magnum engines will have lift based on 1.6 ratio.

If you want to figure out lift with 1.7rr you can either divide rated lift by 1.6, then mulitply by 1.7 (generally about .030 lift added). Or if you know the lobe lift, just multiply that by 1.7.
Best not to add a 1.6 based cam with lift above .500, technically you can go to .512 lift cam with 1.7 but I like a little more room to keep it safe.

An alternative to the RT192 are the Hughes HD (EQ/Clearwater) heads. They have them in both 1.92 & 2.02 valved. Not sure though if they will move the peak torque rpms higher or not TBH.
96 to 01 shorty headers shouldnt be an issue.

 

Thanks Indy,

Are these the heads you were talking about?
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...l&partid=25495

These seem like a pretty good deal for the flow. I don't want to overdo the heads when i am going very mild on the cam.

--Dan