Guys,

I am going to be doing that torque build, which will be heads/cam/roller rockers. I have a parts list but what can I expect to get as "unseen expenses." Everything from Assembly lube to gaskets and everything in between. THis goes for anyone that has done an overhaul (Plenum plate and timing chain)

Here is the parts list:
Cam, Lifters, plenum plate, plenum bolt kit, 180* t-stat, Tune up (Plugs cap rotor), Heads (assembled), roller rockers (with studs, locks), hi flo cat, timing chain, timing chain gasket, header gaskets, head gaskets, TB gasket, 10 QTS oil (one for cam break in, one for after), MSD 6AL, Hypertech coil, 24# injectors, SCT with hemifever tune.

I know, I will need headers, but I am waiting on that. I want to see if the headers I had on my 1996 can be fitted via modifying y-pipe.

QUestions:
What assembly lube should I get (is all purpose good enough?)?
Do I need to go as far as getting another cam position sensor?
Should I get a timing chain that has advance/retard? Not sure that is necessary for a low end torque build.

I am going for parts that are necessary. I am expecting to pay about 2500 for this build. I figure it will run me about 2800.

ALso, what problems can I expect while doing the build. I am really worried about the radiator/ac condenser/tranny cooler. SInce they need to be taken off to get the cam in there.

THanks,
--Dan

 

just call comp cams or krc....they will tell you

 

Yeah, I was going to ask when I ordered the cam. 349 seems a bit steep for a camshaft, so I am wondering if the cam comes with new lifters. Most other places charge 199 (but that is with a core, like hughes).

But i was going to pick their brain. OH and I remembered:

CAM DEGREE WHEEL.

--Dan

 

well, ran into a brick wall.

The AC condenser removal is just as bad as I expected...worse. I can't do it myself. So I don't know how I am going to do the job.

Yeah, I can remove the whole engine, but that would be more than one man can handle. Maybe later down the road.

Might have to switch gears to 1.7RRs instead of the camshaft.

Damn, that RV cam would have been great.

 

Why is that so hard? I did all that myself

 

did what? Take the engine out, or depressurize your AC yourself and swap the cam with the engine in?

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

When I pulled my engine out, I just left the condensor lines hooked up and then just unbolted the condensor and lowered it down out of the way (I removed the radiator all the way). You may be able to get it low enough to do the cam change...

 

You do not need to pull the condensor to get the cam out, just the rad.
Pull the cam out slowly and be real carefull with the last couple inches/lobes.
Should be about 2-3" of clearance to the condensor when it clears the block.
If your nervous unbolt the condensor so it can move, with couple loose wires/strings supporting it from the rad crossbar.
You dont need to disconnect condensor from the system.

 

THANKS

I did some studying of my haynes. THey said to do that. I will also cut some cardboard out to sandwich the condenser so I don't mess up any fins when i am lowering it.

I also have the external tranny cooler. I think i should get a tarp because this is gonna be MESSY.

Should I put the front of the truck on ramps and drany the tranny pan to get excess oil out from the radiator and tranny cooler? Now I am SO glad I have a tranny pan with a drain plug!!!

THanks for the advice. THis is exactly what i was looking for with this build!!

Also, what pullers do I need for the cam sprockets? Just a 2 jaw? Any specific type? I know that most people here machine their own.

 

I drained all the ac stuff and yanked it all out.

You will need a 3 jaw for the dampener . The chain sprockets will just come off when unbolted