My '96' 2500 Diesel is having it's problems with the Heater A/C blower. On occasion it will blow, yet only on high. It's since ceased to work at all. I've checked the continuity of the connections between the blower fan and resistor, they're good. As per some posts on this forum I replaced the blower resistor a few months ago. At that time the fan still continued to blow on high yet it worked when asked to. Now that it will only blow occasionally I checked the resistor, saw a broken connection, soldered it to no avail. Before I put out more and a larger amount of money I'd hoped there is another solution. At least another avenue to pursue to determine the exact cause as to this on again off again high speed blower issue. It's gettin real close to summertime here in Phoenix. Thanks in advance for your input.

 

Check for power at the various inputs for different blower speeds. Could be the switch in the dash is going belly up.

 

im not sure but there might be a relay that is in between the dash switch and the blower, go to the auto-parts store and pull up a schematic, i had a dakota that would only blow on the 1st setting and it turns out in that relay there where 4 fuses and the last 3 where blown

 

Thanks for your replies. I ran through the exposed wiring this afternoon. This was after installing a new resistor. That didn't make a difference. There is power at the fuse itself. I probed the wiring harness that connects to the dash switch. It's a long harness and not one of the connecting ports on it indicated power. I'll back probe from this harness sometime this week. It appears this is where the loss of power terminates. Knowing that the blower itself will work intermittently I see no reason to test it individually. Here's hoping I can find the power break from the switch harness to the fuse. Again, thanks and if you've got anymore direction please clue me in.

 

mine was doing something similar and i had my actual switch unit replaced in the dash and it worked fine. dont know what the problem was just know thats what fixed mine, got it at a junkyard for around 15 bucks. my dad had a chevy truck that did the same thing and he replaced the switch and it fixed it. might be worth looking at? maybe some one else with chime in with a little more info for you

 

Thanks,,,I'm going to start calling the local salvage yards tomorrow. What can it hurt to replace the switch if it's at a salvage yard price, as opposed to a dealers price.

 

Have a wiring diagram.

 

WOW! thanks Brian. This will make crawling under the dash easier for this 55 year old pot bellied white guy. No excuses now. I'll start this evening. I've got a line on a dash control switch from a salvage yard for $35. If it's needed. Thank you again.

 

One thing I have noticed about dodge.... switches and controls tend to provide GROUND to an already powered circuit, rather than power to an already grounded circuit. So, Checking for where power is LOST, you need to start at the END and work your way back toward the switch, and its final grounding point.

I knew things seemed odd...... I am used to GM.

 

Good tip Brian,,I've got to tell ya,,,starting at the end is a way of life for me...I've been accused of doin' a lot of things bass ackward more than once....