U joint and ball joint replacement
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
only the tire, center cap, cotter pin. its that BIG sob, 1-11/16, that's torqued at about 200 pounds.
you need a socket, preferably a big 3/4 or 1/2 impact wrench, lots of penetrating oil and soak time. you need to hold the wheel from turning. some people put a solid crowbar or something in the vanes of the brake rotor and rotate it down to hit the ground. some put the tire back on w/o center cap and use vehicle weight. if you don't have a big impact, then you probably need a long pipe on a 3/4 pull bar. you might break a 1/2 pull bar.
another tip - drive it to a tire shop, take your big socket, and have them use their biggest 3/4 or 1 inch impact to break it loose. oil it and put it back on not so tight, and drive home. don't forget your socket.
use lots of penetrating oil. it helps.
also muscle up for the 12 point 14mm on the back side. they're tight too. also the caliper brackets. pipe on pull bar is your best friend.
you need a socket, preferably a big 3/4 or 1/2 impact wrench, lots of penetrating oil and soak time. you need to hold the wheel from turning. some people put a solid crowbar or something in the vanes of the brake rotor and rotate it down to hit the ground. some put the tire back on w/o center cap and use vehicle weight. if you don't have a big impact, then you probably need a long pipe on a 3/4 pull bar. you might break a 1/2 pull bar.
another tip - drive it to a tire shop, take your big socket, and have them use their biggest 3/4 or 1 inch impact to break it loose. oil it and put it back on not so tight, and drive home. don't forget your socket.
use lots of penetrating oil. it helps.
also muscle up for the 12 point 14mm on the back side. they're tight too. also the caliper brackets. pipe on pull bar is your best friend.
Last edited by dhvaughan; May 27, 2010 at 09:37 PM.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 699
Likes: 0
From: Eaton Ohio
also you may want to check out the merry christmas thread. Its a great tool to add to your arsenal. But get that breaker bar and lube up some elbow grease. I personally used a press on my joints. I tried beating them with a BFH but that only bent the yolk. So I took it to a buddy's house had him press out the old and in the new. Heard it can be done with a hammer but I couldn't get it.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
only the tire, center cap, cotter pin. its that BIG sob, 1-11/16, that's torqued at about 200 pounds.
you need a socket, preferably a big 3/4 or 1/2 impact wrench, lots of penetrating oil and soak time. you need to hold the wheel from turning. some people put a solid crowbar or something in the vanes of the brake rotor and rotate it down to hit the ground. some put the tire back on w/o center cap and use vehicle weight. if you don't have a big impact, then you probably need a long pipe on a 3/4 pull bar. you might break a 1/2 pull bar.
another tip - drive it to a tire shop, take your big socket, and have them use their biggest 3/4 or 1 inch impact to break it loose. oil it and put it back on not so tight, and drive home. don't forget your socket.
use lots of penetrating oil. it helps.
also muscle up for the 12 point 14mm on the back side. they're tight too. also the caliper brackets. pipe on pull bar is your best friend.
you need a socket, preferably a big 3/4 or 1/2 impact wrench, lots of penetrating oil and soak time. you need to hold the wheel from turning. some people put a solid crowbar or something in the vanes of the brake rotor and rotate it down to hit the ground. some put the tire back on w/o center cap and use vehicle weight. if you don't have a big impact, then you probably need a long pipe on a 3/4 pull bar. you might break a 1/2 pull bar.
another tip - drive it to a tire shop, take your big socket, and have them use their biggest 3/4 or 1 inch impact to break it loose. oil it and put it back on not so tight, and drive home. don't forget your socket.
use lots of penetrating oil. it helps.
also muscle up for the 12 point 14mm on the back side. they're tight too. also the caliper brackets. pipe on pull bar is your best friend.
I had just barely started to flex before I busted my nut (ha!). A good penetrating fluid will make you laugh at a bolt with more pits than Brad Pitts face and enough rust to make you thing it was used on a Navy ship that had been out to sea for 20 years.
also you may want to check out the merry christmas thread. Its a great tool to add to your arsenal. But get that breaker bar and lube up some elbow grease. I personally used a press on my joints. I tried beating them with a BFH but that only bent the yolk. So I took it to a buddy's house had him press out the old and in the new. Heard it can be done with a hammer but I couldn't get it.
If you use the hammer to put the new one in (like I did) then you need to make sure the cross is started in both caps before you make contact with the hammer because you don't want to knock one of those needle bearings down off the wall of the cap and have to pull the u-joint back out because it won't seat right.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Trevor, WI
[quote=Sheriff420;2144932
When you cut the cross out of a u-joint, the caps come out without any fuss by way of even a SFH. Some people say to smack the ears of the yoke with a hammer after putting pressure on the u-joint with a press and it'll get the caps moving.
If you use the hammer to put the new one in (like I did) then you need to make sure the cross is started in both caps before you make contact with the hammer because you don't want to knock one of those needle bearings down off the wall of the cap and have to pull the u-joint back out because it won't seat right.[/quote]
Got it all taken care of, i don't mind paying 15$ to have the old ones removed and the new ones pressed it. Still saved myself a good amount of money. Thanks for all of the help!
When you cut the cross out of a u-joint, the caps come out without any fuss by way of even a SFH. Some people say to smack the ears of the yoke with a hammer after putting pressure on the u-joint with a press and it'll get the caps moving.
If you use the hammer to put the new one in (like I did) then you need to make sure the cross is started in both caps before you make contact with the hammer because you don't want to knock one of those needle bearings down off the wall of the cap and have to pull the u-joint back out because it won't seat right.[/quote]
Got it all taken care of, i don't mind paying 15$ to have the old ones removed and the new ones pressed it. Still saved myself a good amount of money. Thanks for all of the help!
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Trevor, WI
Yes sir, both of em were done. It wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be. I've learned quite a bit in the past like 3 weeks, i've replaced the water pump, fuel pump, and now the u joints. Before that i had like no mechanical experience.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
let me look into your future - i see you learning new things. i see you buying new tools. i see you spending lots of money. i see you learning all about....
plenum.
timing chain.
drive shaft u-joints.
OBD codes
ball joints
track bar
steering box
bearings
radio and speakers
cracked dash
heater core.
i would type more, but i have to go work on my truck. LOL
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
I have a few minutes before I go work on mine so I'll add a couple.
Check valves
cracked bezel
leaky third brake light
faded headlights
IAC/TPS/ASD/CPS/CKS
drum brakes
disk brakes
well, gotta go throw that transfer case back in my truck....
Check valves
cracked bezel
leaky third brake light
faded headlights
IAC/TPS/ASD/CPS/CKS
drum brakes
disk brakes
well, gotta go throw that transfer case back in my truck....