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Truck won't start

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  #11  
Old 06-02-2010, 03:30 PM
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Is there a way to test the coil? I am trying to avoid throwing parts at it, as I have already been doing that to no avail.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:39 PM
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The best test is the presence or absence of a good, strong spark at the plugs. If you've got that good spark, the coil's fine.

I've seen coils fail such that the spark got weaker as the coil got hotter, but that failure mode can't happen during a cold start.
 
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:54 PM
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OK, I started diagnostics today. Fuel pressure is good. I checked the resistance on all of the injectors and they were fine. I checked the fuel and ASC relays and they were fine.
While checking all of the spark plugs for spark the engine started while I had the #6 wire off. When I replaced it, it wouldn't start the first time, but will start now. When I get to about 3000 RPM it runs real rough, like it is missing a few cylinders. I don't believe it can be the dist cap or rotor, as they are new and I was having problems before replacing them. Where should I go next?
Thanks,
Ken

Oh, I checked the resistance on the coil and it was good.
 

Last edited by BoneEOD; 06-04-2010 at 05:57 PM.
  #14  
Old 06-04-2010, 06:13 PM
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Pull the pre-cat O2 sensor, and see if you rough running problem goes away.
 
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:17 PM
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OK, I can pull that and check it. Why would that be the case when it didn't start with it out before?
 
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:18 PM
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My edit disappeared. I am now getting a P0180 problem code - MAP/BARO Circuit High Input. Could this cause the problem?
 
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BoneEOD
My edit disappeared. I am now getting a P0180 problem code - MAP/BARO Circuit High Input. Could this cause the problem?
Entirely possible. Incorrect airflow readings will give you too much/not enough fuel to burn. Check the map sensor (on the front of the throttle body), make sure it is plugged in good, is seated well in its spot......
 
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:29 PM
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Edited to read: Never Mind!

It's very interesting how dramatically the symptoms have changed.
 

Last edited by UnregisteredUser; 06-04-2010 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Reality fluctuations.
  #19  
Old 06-04-2010, 06:38 PM
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Yes, not sure how removing the one spark plug wire and watching it for spark could get the engine to start!
I removed the pre-cat and all the sputtering stopped and it will now go past 3000 RPM. I wish I could have seen this before when I tried it, but that is the way it goes.
I guess I will drill out the cat, need to find directions on here. I could have bought a new cat with all of the money I wasted not doing proper diagnostics and don't have enough money now to do so. Arrgg!
 
  #20  
Old 06-04-2010, 06:39 PM
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Also, the MAP sensor it plugged in properly and the elbow is connected. Do you think I will need to replace it?
 


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