hello

i have never done a motor swap before,

ram 2500 4x4 currently a 5.9 that runs with some issues, and 110 k on it. i have a much better 5.9 on a junk truck that seems to run better, with alot of power

So i crawled under it, removed the starter, removed the lower bolts that connect the motor to the bell housing,...removed the two upper side bolts on each side. is there a center top bolt by the distributer?

also i have nver seperated an auto trans before, how does that work , does the tourque converter bolt to the fly wheel? and comes off with the motor?

as i understand it, my steps would be , discounnect the exhast, disconnect electrial wiring, remove air filter housing, remove houses, remove fan shroud, remove hood, chain it up (is there a hook point on the motor?) tourch the mount bolts and up in comes?

anything im missing? any advice for installing the new (used motor with 150 k on it)

note i only need this truck to run for 8 more months then its for sale. so i would like to do this cheaply

 

i would say check ur plenum gasket before putting the different engine in. That stupid gasket can cause spark knock, loss of power and oil consumption. It might feel like your engine is junk when ur plenum gasket goes.Also with only 110,000 on it, it should have alot of like left. Mines at 250,000 and still going very strong!

 

this is a plow truck so the motor has taken a beating, it does start and have lots of power, but it does consum a little oil ( qt per 1000 miles ) , from 30k miles i have had spark mis fires on the #7 cylinder ( unknown), it leaks from just about every place, exhaust manifold is completely shot (sounds like a tracktor going down the road, all the other sensors have started to go one by one, the rock salt i spread is showing its effects, and last year we ended up chasing our tails around trying soulve an engine code problem,. replaced alot of things, including the cam and crank sensors, and now that problem is back. i just dont have the time to deal with all these issues, i need this truck to work every day.

block it self is ingood shape., would make for a very easy rebuild

 

ok man, unfortinetly i cant help you any more, iv never done an engine swap but someone on here will help u. goodluck!

 

Pull the starter and the inspection cover then pop the bolts out of the torque converter before you pull the motor make sure the trans is supported, you can run a ratchet strap under the trans to each frame rail and that will do just fine. you will need a pry bar or BIG screw driver to pull the motor from the trans. If your R&R'n this then you might as well drain the antifreeze and pull the water pump and everything off the front of the engine (only on the engine your discarding) it will give you more space to work and to pull the engine forward. Also with all the new sensors you may need to have the truck flashed alot of times a sensor wont read with the computer thus tossing codes same goes for the transmission if you have put in a new trans or had yours rebuilt but didn't flash the computer then it will run bad and toss codes. as long as your computer throws codes it will make the truck run incorrectly.

Hope this helps if you have any other Q's I'd be glad to offer up as much knowledge as I can!

Shawn.

 

Trans was rebuilt 10k ago. Runs fine.

We replaced the sensors, reset the computer with a scanner. No engine light for a few months, then the same problem came back

 

Can you explain the problem in depth?

Shawn.

 

To remove and install the engine.

There are 8 transmission bolts this IS counting the 2 starter bolts.
No there is not a center top bolt by the distribute
Yes you need to remove the tourque converter nuts from the flex plat there are 4 nuts. It will stay in / with the transmission.

Step by Step.

1. Scribe hood hinge outlines on the hood and remove the hood from the vehicle. Disconnect the battery.
2. Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block.
3. Drain the engine oil
4. Remove the air cleaner.
5. Remove the starter.
6. Depressurize the fuel injection system.
7. If equipped, remove the transmission oil cooler.
8. Disconnect both radiator and heater hoses. Remove the radiator and set the fan shroud aside.
9. Remove the power steering pump and hoses attached and lay them aside.
10. Disconnect and tag the vacuum lines.
11. Remove the A/C compressor and lay it aside with the hoses connected, if enough slack exists. If not, disconnect the A/C hoses..
15. Disconnect the throttle linkage and all electrical connection to the engine sensors. Tag all electrical connections before disconnecting.
16. Remove the alternator, fan, pulley and drive belt(s).
17. Remove the distributor cap and wires.
18. Remove and plug the fuel line.
19. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
20. On automatic transmission models, remove the bell housing bolts and inspection plate. Attach a C-clamp on the front bottom of the transmission torque converter housing to prevent the torque converter from coming out.
21. Remove the retaining bolts from the torque converter drive plate. Mark the converter and drive plate to aid in reassembly.
22. Remove the drive shaft and engine rear support.
23. Support the transmission with a suitable transmission jack.
24. Remove the transmission.
25. Raise the rear of the engine approximately 2 in. (51mm) and remove the clutch or drive plate and the flywheel.
26. Using a boom hoist attached to the engine with the shortest hook-up possible, take up all tension and support the engine.

Do not lift the engine by the intake manifold.

27. Remove the engine front mounts and insulators.
28. Carefully remove the engine from the vehicle. Lift slowly and watch for any snagged or missed connections. Mount the engine on a suitable engine stand.
29. Installation is the reverse of removal. Secure all components to specifications.
31. Fill the cooling system. Connect the battery.
32. Check all fluid levels and perform all tune-up adjustments if the engine was rebuilt.




Now that is all about a 8 hour job by the book
Any questions just ask
http://www.justanswer.com/profile.aspx?PF=533087&FID=25

 

sure

once warmed up, while at idle and in gear (under a load) you step on the gas and the motor starts to sputter, misc fire, back fire, and all kinds of things. commonly happens at stop lights. once the rpm gets up above 3000 then it will start acting fine again. sometimes while decerating, it will act up and do the same thing. come check came back CAM position sensor. which we replaced. also replaced the crank sensor. did do the trick but the problem came back after a month. this motor is one a salt truck and under the hood its really showing it. the block it self has been fine, altho i do thro a mis fire on #7 even after a plug and wire change and resetting the computer. So since i have the extra motor im going to do a motor swap. i will be selling the used motor for cheap, and i have a ram 2500 2wd auto trans , with no bed or rear bumper and no motor, that i will be selling realyl cheap as well - make me an offer if your interested

 

is there a good place to hook this motor up?