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timing chain job

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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #11  
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depends on the torque the impact is capable of.

I know it doesn't sound like fun, but you better pull it back apart and check everything carefully.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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how much out of alignment are we talking about?
and is the balancer push onto the crank too deep?
or not deep enough? if not deep enough, hit it with the impact for a 2-3 sec and see if it draws in.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 12:37 AM
  #13  
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will keep that in mind. but man iam thinken iam gettin over my head in this. so i got to leave the beer in the frig till i get this job done.



Originally Posted by dhvaughan
don't worry about #6 or #1 or TDC or Compression or any of that.
find the dots on the timing sprockets, rotate engine until they are dot to dot.
remove sprockets and chain as a set
DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE.
reinstall new sprockets and chain. they are keyed. only go one way.
the ONLY way you can screw up it is to rotate the engine when they are removed.

you must remove the balancer in order to remove the timing cover. not hard, just rent or buy a puller. impact gun makes it easy, otherwise its hard.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
how much out of alignment are we talking about?
and is the balancer push onto the crank too deep?
or not deep enough? if not deep enough, hit it with the impact for a 2-3 sec and see if it draws in.
About 3/16 of an inch not far enough. I rattled it on there pretty good I thought, but maybe I'll get to have a look at it tonight. Should it normally go back on easily?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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Try lubing the outside of the balancer snout to help it slide in easier. The straighter you reinstall it, the easier it is. If you try to rock it on side to side, you can ruin the rubber damper ring, or cause it to bind up and not seat completely.

Also, the balancer only goes on one way, there's a keyway that needs to line up with the crank key. That keeps the marker on the balancer in relative alignment with the timing cover markings. Perhaps you didn't notice that when you reinstalled and it didn't seat completely???
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #16  
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Well I just took things apart and its not pretty. I had a bi*&$ of a time removing the crank nose bolt and yup, the threads are not good from the end of bolt for about 1/4 inch. The rest of the threads are fine. Crank nose threads don't look that nice either, so I will get a tap and die to clean things up and hope its salvageable. Not sure what happened during assembly, cause I had the keyway lined up and threaded the bolt in by hand a fair ways first. I am gonna be away for a week so I won't work on it again for that time, but I'll keep checking posts here for advice/thoughts, etc.

I measure the bolt out to be 3/4 x 16, unless I'm off a bit and its metric???
 

Last edited by atc250r; Jul 15, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 08:41 PM
  #17  
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I would definitely get a bolt like that from the dealership, or perhaps contact www.hughesengines.com .

you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
I would definitely get a bolt like that from the dealership, or perhaps contact www.hughesengines.com .

you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
I was just gonna get a tap and die to clean up both sets of threads. If I do replace the bolt, I would definitely get it at the dealer. Just wondering if I need to look for a metric or standard tap and die?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by atc250r
I was just gonna get a tap and die to clean up both sets of threads. If I do replace the bolt, I would definitely get it at the dealer. Just wondering if I need to look for a metric or standard tap and die?
Take the bolt with you, they should have a thread gauge there somewhere you can use.
 
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