timing chain job
how much out of alignment are we talking about?
and is the balancer push onto the crank too deep?
or not deep enough? if not deep enough, hit it with the impact for a 2-3 sec and see if it draws in.
and is the balancer push onto the crank too deep?
or not deep enough? if not deep enough, hit it with the impact for a 2-3 sec and see if it draws in.
will keep that in mind. but man iam thinken iam gettin over my head in this. so i got to leave the beer in the frig till i get this job done.
don't worry about #6 or #1 or TDC or Compression or any of that.
find the dots on the timing sprockets, rotate engine until they are dot to dot.
remove sprockets and chain as a set
DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE.
reinstall new sprockets and chain. they are keyed. only go one way.
the ONLY way you can screw up it is to rotate the engine when they are removed.
you must remove the balancer in order to remove the timing cover. not hard, just rent or buy a puller. impact gun makes it easy, otherwise its hard.
find the dots on the timing sprockets, rotate engine until they are dot to dot.
remove sprockets and chain as a set
DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE.
reinstall new sprockets and chain. they are keyed. only go one way.
the ONLY way you can screw up it is to rotate the engine when they are removed.
you must remove the balancer in order to remove the timing cover. not hard, just rent or buy a puller. impact gun makes it easy, otherwise its hard.
About 3/16 of an inch not far enough. I rattled it on there pretty good I thought, but maybe I'll get to have a look at it tonight. Should it normally go back on easily?
Try lubing the outside of the balancer snout to help it slide in easier. The straighter you reinstall it, the easier it is. If you try to rock it on side to side, you can ruin the rubber damper ring, or cause it to bind up and not seat completely.
Also, the balancer only goes on one way, there's a keyway that needs to line up with the crank key. That keeps the marker on the balancer in relative alignment with the timing cover markings. Perhaps you didn't notice that when you reinstalled and it didn't seat completely???
Also, the balancer only goes on one way, there's a keyway that needs to line up with the crank key. That keeps the marker on the balancer in relative alignment with the timing cover markings. Perhaps you didn't notice that when you reinstalled and it didn't seat completely???
Well I just took things apart and its not pretty. I had a bi*&$ of a time removing the crank nose bolt and yup, the threads are not good from the end of bolt for about 1/4 inch. The rest of the threads are fine. Crank nose threads don't look that nice either, so I will get a tap and die to clean things up and hope its salvageable. Not sure what happened during assembly, cause I had the keyway lined up and threaded the bolt in by hand a fair ways first. I am gonna be away for a week so I won't work on it again for that time, but I'll keep checking posts here for advice/thoughts, etc.
I measure the bolt out to be 3/4 x 16, unless I'm off a bit and its metric???
I measure the bolt out to be 3/4 x 16, unless I'm off a bit and its metric???
Last edited by atc250r; Jul 15, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
I would definitely get a bolt like that from the dealership, or perhaps contact www.hughesengines.com .
you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
I would definitely get a bolt like that from the dealership, or perhaps contact www.hughesengines.com .
you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
you don't want one that's too soft or hard and screw other things up. A bolt that takes 135ft/lbs. isn't a Home Depot standard.
Take the bolt with you, they should have a thread gauge there somewhere you can use.








