If you heat the hub up before you pull the stud through shouldnt be too bad.
Rim, Id replace it.

 

You can bang them out and pull them in. I had a challenge finding the studs when I replaced a couple on my 2500. I went to auto zone, 2 advance auto parts then finally pep boys before I found 3 of them. That is probably just my luck since it seems every time I need something no one has it in stock.

Depending on your maintenance you may want to consider pulling the hub and repacking the bearings. The rear bearings are not sealed like the fronts are. To do so you need to buy a special socket to remove the axle nut along with buying a new lock nut and keeper. It is more work, but in the end it would be worth the effort if you plan on keeping your truck.

 

Well, here. This place has them in stock. Just a suggestion.....http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

this time torque them correctly

 

Off topic, but are you sure you have an 80? I was always under the assumption that all V8's had a 60, and diesels/auto's had the 70 and diesel/sticks had the 80.

 

^ Its funny you mention that, I was under the assumption that my rear axle was Dana 80, but you got me thinking that it may be the 60. Anyways, finished the wheel studs, had to get them at the dealership. Napa gave me the wrong ones twice, so I said screw it. Coughed up the $85 after discount (buddy works at the parts dept) compared to the $30 at Napa for wrong shiz. Also had to buy a new air powered impact gun...got the Husky XL650 and its pretty sweet, made easy work outta putting these suckers in. Used a jaw puller to set the studs, and impacted it the rest of the way with lug and washers. Think I'll sell the black wheels to the mexican wheels shop and throw the M/T wheels back on (after I get the Nitto Grapplers flipped out Monday....