Pulled my plugs, have a look
#12
07-14-2010 | 10:49 AM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 34
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From: Texas
Thats exactly what I'm going to do to my truck after I get the Plenum Kit in from APS. The previous owner let it go so long that he had to put a new cat on and the exhaust manifold has 2 cracked bolts on that side. I'm also throwing on pacesetter shorties on there to try to keep temps down in that area in the future. Just cant wait for that plenum kit to get here.
#13
07-14-2010 | 11:30 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 46
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From: NH
great information. what type of cap/rotor do you guys recomended?
If you've got the cash and want to put top quality wires on it that will last for years and years, go with Magnecor. www.magnecor.com
If you can't afford those, I recommend Taylor wires and, route them to the TSB.
Plugs, hands down- go with NGK V- powers.
Now as far as the No 8 Plug is concerned (well, all your plugs actually LOL) those are beyond anything I've ever seen. Those are in bad shape, rust and all.
Here's what most likely happened, No 8 either detonated or, it was already worn due to high mileage and just crapped out to the point where, the electrode was burned through thus severing it.
Cleaning the debris off with a brush, check the electrode and look for signs of it getting whacked, smashed, bent over to one side, rolled over etc. My guess is that you won't find that and it's just old age.
No 8 CYL sees the most heat as it's near the back and, if the converter is partially restricted, the heat backs up the exhaust into the two rear chambers primarily. This causes the two rear plugs to fail faster than the remaining plugs.
IF you don't see any evidence of mechanical interference at the plug level, place a new set of NGK V-powers in and torque them per spec to seat the compression washer.
Run it for a while, note any mechanical noise that may be emanating from that side. If not, drive it for a bit and pull the plug on CYL No 8 and inspect it for mechanical damage, bent, squashed, collapsing the gap etc. If not, it's fine thus leading us to reason that the failure was simply due to very old age plugs that had s-h-i-t the bed long ago.
However, if evidence shows mechanical interference at the No 8 plug, then you've got a problem. Again, I think it's just old age and wear and tear that led to the failure.
CM
If you can't afford those, I recommend Taylor wires and, route them to the TSB.
Plugs, hands down- go with NGK V- powers.
Now as far as the No 8 Plug is concerned (well, all your plugs actually LOL) those are beyond anything I've ever seen. Those are in bad shape, rust and all.
Here's what most likely happened, No 8 either detonated or, it was already worn due to high mileage and just crapped out to the point where, the electrode was burned through thus severing it.
Cleaning the debris off with a brush, check the electrode and look for signs of it getting whacked, smashed, bent over to one side, rolled over etc. My guess is that you won't find that and it's just old age.
No 8 CYL sees the most heat as it's near the back and, if the converter is partially restricted, the heat backs up the exhaust into the two rear chambers primarily. This causes the two rear plugs to fail faster than the remaining plugs.
IF you don't see any evidence of mechanical interference at the plug level, place a new set of NGK V-powers in and torque them per spec to seat the compression washer.
Run it for a while, note any mechanical noise that may be emanating from that side. If not, drive it for a bit and pull the plug on CYL No 8 and inspect it for mechanical damage, bent, squashed, collapsing the gap etc. If not, it's fine thus leading us to reason that the failure was simply due to very old age plugs that had s-h-i-t the bed long ago.
However, if evidence shows mechanical interference at the No 8 plug, then you've got a problem. Again, I think it's just old age and wear and tear that led to the failure.
CM
#14
07-14-2010 | 12:07 PM
Unfortunately, the company that used to make my caps no longer produces the correct model anymore and, I had to resort to finding something local at O' Rielly's which, was a three letter name but, my memory fails to recall just what that name was. Some know the name here. Mallory is what I used to run and, Taylor or Mopar Performance on occasion. I prefer Mallory ignition components over anything else but, the last time I checked, I couldn't find the correct cap / rotor and, when I called tech support, I was told they no longer offered it.
So, since most are made by the same company anyway, all you need to do is ask / look for one that uses solid brass terminals. AVOID Aluminum (Al) at all costs.
Also, check the rotor for play or slop / side to side movement at the pop rivet- this you do not want. You want a solid rotor that's not going to move around thus end up twisting like a piece of ribbon candy which, is exactly what happens with those cheap rotors after a while.
CM
So, since most are made by the same company anyway, all you need to do is ask / look for one that uses solid brass terminals. AVOID Aluminum (Al) at all costs.
Also, check the rotor for play or slop / side to side movement at the pop rivet- this you do not want. You want a solid rotor that's not going to move around thus end up twisting like a piece of ribbon candy which, is exactly what happens with those cheap rotors after a while.
CM
#16
07-14-2010 | 02:28 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
I run the NGK V-powers and would recommend them over any Champion, Autolite, or Bosch plug.
I've run all these plugs with an MSD box, Magnecor wires, and Napa brass cap and good working rotor:
Autolite 3923's - good for 500 miles, then rough as hell. Chucked in trash at 1500 miles.
Champion Stock heat range - meh.
Champion truck plugs - second favorite plug thus far.
Bosch +4 platinum - terrible plug for the truck, just bad.
NGK iridiums - ran very smooth, but damn expensive.
NGK V-power - runs smooth, reasonable price, best off idle response of all plugs save the Iridiums.
cmckenna might have convinced me to run the pulstars, but not until I've killed the V powers that are in there now.
I've run all these plugs with an MSD box, Magnecor wires, and Napa brass cap and good working rotor:
Autolite 3923's - good for 500 miles, then rough as hell. Chucked in trash at 1500 miles.
Champion Stock heat range - meh.
Champion truck plugs - second favorite plug thus far.
Bosch +4 platinum - terrible plug for the truck, just bad.
NGK iridiums - ran very smooth, but damn expensive.
NGK V-power - runs smooth, reasonable price, best off idle response of all plugs save the Iridiums.
cmckenna might have convinced me to run the pulstars, but not until I've killed the V powers that are in there now.
#17
07-14-2010 | 02:44 PM
Captain
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 665
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From: Brussels, WI
#20
07-14-2010 | 03:56 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,648
Likes: 6
That is one NASSY plug. My honest recommendation to you would be to pull the fuel rail to completely clean the interior. When I rebuilt my engine I discovered a lot of built up crud on the side that supplies the passenger bank. Some further reading showed that to be a common issue with these vehicles.