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the Plenum that wasnt...

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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 09:36 PM
  #11  
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How do you get the pvc valve out? I was pulling on but did not want to come out. Do i just pull harder?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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It should just pull out...... should.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by devin colpitts
How do you get the pvc valve out? I was pulling on but did not want to come out. Do i just pull harder?
Put some muscle in it and yank it.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 01:03 AM
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If it doesn't want to come out with a good tug, run the engine to normal operating temperature to soften the grommet in the valve cover, then shut 'er down and give a tug. And consider replacing the grommet, too.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by J415
Put some muscle in it and yank it.
Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
If it doesn't want to come out with a good tug, then shut 'er down and give a tug.
That's what she... never mind, too easy.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
That's what she... never mind, too easy.

Awesome. lol
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cmckenna
That sound is usually the lifters losing hydraulic pressure. If it is a ticking / clacking sound that continues on after shutting the key off HOT OR COLD, that is the lifters losing hydraulic pressure. Lifter clack is what this is known as.

This is the ticking sound that many hear including myself after changing the plenum or oil. Depending on whether one is using standard dino oil (the correct oil) or full synthetics (the wrong oil), this will be much more noticeable when using synthetics. Synthetic oil is not able to hold hydraulic pressure under loading when in the OFF state. Thus, leaking and weeping out of the lifter itself thus causing that clacking racket. I recommend changing the motor oil to the proper weight and type to good old Valvoline Dino oil over synthetic oils. It will run much quieter. These Magnum engines were not designed to run with synthetics and vice versa.

CM

that is some useful info CMC thanks. does this cause and adverse issues? i always use dino oil. but is this just something happens after an engine wears so much? is it worth fixing? or can you even fix it? besides just differet oil, does it have to do with lifter seals or rings or anything of that nature?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGRED97
that is some useful info CMC thanks. does this cause and adverse issues? i always use dino oil. but is this just something happens after an engine wears so much? is it worth fixing? or can you even fix it? besides just differet oil, does it have to do with lifter seals or rings or anything of that nature?

Have you noticed any variation in oil pressure? Fluctuation- rapid dips, or any other anomaly?

Have you tested as I suggested: turn over and kill immediately / turn over using crank while listening for that noise? If so, what were the results?

First thing is to determine whether or not you've got the lifter issue or not. That's the first step.

In short: Yes, lifter ticking is a problem and, it can induce serious problems as the lifter is the heart of opening and closing the valves so, if it's not working properly or, worse, it collapses, the valve is going to slam shut.

CM
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Passenger side valve cover? Plastic feller with a hose going to the intake. Find him, take him out, and give him a good shake. Does he rattle? If he does, its 'good'. If you don't hear/feel anything moving in there, replace it.
have always sloshed mine around in gasoline when a little sticky works every time. Only way these fail is if they physically break.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Well, there is another failure associated with these other than it breaking. AS the spring inside ages, it becomes weaker thus not functioning in the same manner as when new.

They are dirt cheap so, I always recommend new ones with new springs. Watch out for the El-cheapo models that have the ball sitting ****-eyed or, off to one side.


CM
 
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