is that the one I can go down to advance auto or autozone and use? Or am i thinking OBDII?

on another note, do you have a buddy that has a similar year dodge that you can borrow the PCM out of and see if that is your problem?

 

LOL, no, the DRBIII / DART tools are not a hand scan tool such as the types of el-cheapos that the auto stores carry hence the 7500-10,000 dollar cost on those.*


These tools are custom programmed specifically for Dodge Chrysler service centers. These also interface with a larger, rack type of setup that interfaces with DYNOs, Scopes and engine analyzers as well. It's a very expensive system.


What your thinking of is a hand held SCAN tool. Those are as useful as **** on a bull as, they can't read all the codes and, they are cheaply made plus, you can't reprogram anything.


CM

 

dvom is a digital volt/ohm meter.drb3 is diagnostic readout box gen 3.fsm is factory service manual.dart is discontinued and had been for years.drb3 along with the mds (mopar diagnostic system) is used on 83-03 and the starscan for 04-10(can).i to agree its a communication issue.test the cluster by holding the trip meter why turning the key on and record the codes on the odo and watch which gauges that fail to sweep.what factory options interior wise do you have?factory alarm?when you put the key in does the chimes(ding ding) work?power door locks,wipers working?edit.dont forget to test the Auto Shift Manual Control CKTwere ever that is

 

Please learn to use the space bar when typing.


Thank you,


CM

 

now the criticism starts.on the way i type no less.helping a guy out with his truck and all you want to do is discredit everything i have posted.in fact its your spoken word that has discredit everything you have posted.first a friend has no power/gauges trucks dead.then magically its another friend had a no bus in the odo.which is it?google-ing the codes didnt work either.i have never said the pcm is bad.in fact from the info i have to this point its a bad cluster.edit.i see you changed/edit the obdIII to drb3.lol

please type correct info in posts.

thank u

S2P

 

All I said was learn to use the space bar please. It's hard to read your posts as they are all run on sentences and no caps for the start of each line which, makes it hard to read- that's all. You took it the wrong way.

I've corrected many on this forum for wording a post and, they don't get offended for, they know that they may have worded it wrong.

Case in point, people say, "before this, it ran perfect" only to later find out that such was not the case.

I then remind them politely to choose their wording wiseley and, in all cases, no one was offended or became offensive such as in this case.

What I believe I said was, I have been involved in TWO cases of this same thing not just ONE.

Yes, duely noted. I corrected the acronym to correct a mistake but, don't think you've got one over on me here- you don't. I'll even prove that I've mentioned that (DRB and DART) long before you joined last month.

Here's proof: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ing-issue.html NOTE: Post No 5: NO edit either. This is from the beginning of this year in fact.

CM

 

I want you to run another simple test.

Disconnect the BAT

Disconnect the CKPS sensor (connector is located on the right side sometimes behind the dizzy)

Reconnect BAT

Turn the KEY to <ON>

Does your cluster and all guages work now? Y / N

<IF> Y: root problem is a shorted CKPS or faulty CKPS

<IF> N:

disconnect BAT and reconnect CKPS and disconnect the CPS. Connector is located on the right side of the dizzy.

Turn the key to <ON>

Does your cluster work now? Y / N

<IF> Y: root cause is either a shorted or fault at the CPS sensor level.

<IF> N: back to probing for shorts, bad connections, etc.

NOTE: If the 5V supply is shorted at either sensor to ground, the bus will not be able to communicate and transmit messages thus producing a communication error.

CM

 

Hey just wanted to let you know I believe all or part of my problem most likely is the CrankShaft Position Sensor. From what I think I know it should read 500 to 800 ohms or there abouts. Mine seems to be reading M ohms. Tried to pull it last week to no avail. Been soaking it with Aero Kroil for two days. Could they have put it in a more of a ****ty location!!! Any easy ways to get in there? I can barely get my hands back there!! I'll keep you posted...

 

just do it from underneath the truck and stick your hand up on the passengers side and use a stubby wrench i changed mine in less then 10 mins doing it that way

 

Yeah, what I do, is crouch in the pass side of the motor and press my head into the rubber. Then, by feel only, I get in there by following the tranny dip stick down until I've located the bolts. I work them out with either an allen wrench (they have allen slots) and or, a universal and two extensions.

Now, you must lube up the grommet / rubber sensor bushing prior to pulling the CKPS.

WHY: the sensor may bind up in the rubber grommet / seal thus, the risk of pulling it out along with the sensor.

Now, when installing it. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT> make sure that the sensor body is lubed up slightly with mineral oil. IF you insert the sensor dry, there's a risk of it pushing the rubber grommet INTO THE TRANNY / BELL HOUSING. I've done that and, luckily, it was resting on the top of the flywheel where, I was able to fish it out after removing the starter, the shield thus exposing the flywheel area.

So, make sure that both the seal and sensor body are slippery to avoid that from happening. That's another tip.

This is why I wanted you to test the CKPS and CPS and also why I listed it out in my first post as a failure mode. If it's not working or, it's shorting the 5 V supply, it kills all power to the rest of the cluster thus, producing the same thing you've got going there.

The other thing that supports this is the fact that at one point, the truck ran rougher than usual right before it died which leads me to believe that it has something to do with a failsafe event being triggered from a fault at the sensor level.

Now, there's so many possible root causes that it's not funny. From a shorted wire under the steering column where the tilt mechanism is (if you've got tilt) to a simple corroded battery lead. It's really hard to pinpoint quickly without getting lucky the first time as with the connector issue at the PDC or a corroded battery cable.

The only way to do this is to rule it out one by one until all has been factored out. This can take some time unless, you're familiar with the systems.



CM