who are you to criticise ones typing format.ones format is unique and in some cases writen to keep the readers attention.long drown-out format the reader tends to fall asleep.case in point^^^crank sensor will not cause the cluster to go blank.crank sensor is apart of the ASD circuit and wired into the pcm.not the cluster or any module within the ccd.she wont start but all gauge fuction will be operational.better understanding of the fuction,workings of the ccd 2 wire multiplexing system is need to diagnose issues like this.anyways the op was just login and hasnt had the time i guess to do the actuator test.ill just wash my hands and be done

 

Hey I believe this part was intended for me. What was the actuator test?? In answer to a previous message you posted all my accessories still work. Only thing that wasn't functioning ( Hmmm Functioning?? Well I didn't notice any movement ) was the Tach and Gas gauge. All other gauges powered on and went to a base setting just did not register anything beyond that. Oh and I do have the factory alarm but to be honest I really can't remember if my alarm ever did ding LOL!! Other than that I want to thank everyone for their input hopefully this week I will be back on the road!!!

 

You may want to disable the air bag for safety concerns prior to running this test. This is from a later manual so, it may not be 100% applicable to a 98.

The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the CCD data bus message-controlled indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD), and turn all of the CCD data bus messagecontrolled indicators on and off.

Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CCD data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Engine Control Module (ECM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a DRBIII scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
(2) Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(3) While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
(4) Keep the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the
odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(5) A series of three-digit numeric failure messages may appear in the odometer display, depending upon the failure mode. If a failure message appears, refer to the Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction. If no failure message appears, the actuator test will proceed.

(6) The instrument cluster will begin the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each VFD segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the VFD will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster.

Following completion of the VFD walking segment test, the actuator
test will proceed as described in Step 7.

(7) The instrument cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator that the instrument cluster circuitry controls. If the wait-to-start indicator does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Each of the remaining instrument cluster circuitry controlled indicators except the cruise indicator are illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED). If an
LED or the cruise indicator in the VFD, fails to illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the actuator test will proceed as described in Step 8.

(8) The instrument cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly, or does not respond at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster.

(9) The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.

(10) Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.

CM

 

Ok I wasn't sure why the Crankshaft Position Sensor would cause my problems especially when it seemed like a communcations fault of some kind to me. But when I ohmed the sensor I was getting extremely high resistance values so I took a chance. After soaking the bolts in Aero-Kroil for a few days while I was working ( Damn I love that stuff ) came back and had the old one off and the new one bolted up in about 10 minutes. Thought this is going way to good to be true!! Put the key in turned to ACC still no gas gauge ( not looking good ) Turned key to On seemed like same old same old!! Tried to start the truck and guess what same BS ran for a few seconds then died with all the same symptoms!!! Oh and this actuator test if it is the turn to on while holding the trip button I did that in the beginning and listed my findings in my opening thread. At this point I'm about ready to order a new PCM from ACE... Frustrated as all hell I want my damn truck back!!!

 

Well, at least you know more now and, that it wasn't a SHORTED CKPS or FAULT. We've just ruled that out. But, the supply may / could be shorted.

When you did the test, did all the gauges sweep or not? Did you notice any dead gauges? If so, that is indicative of a bad cluster for, if it was good, and it had power, it should have at least performed a full sweep to those setpoints during the auto diagnostics test. If at anytime, it did not sweep on any one test, there's a problem at the cluster level.

In some cases (as it was with another DF user) it was the PCM BUT, I have read countless times where, the PCM was replaced (400.00 - 800.00) and still NOTHING WORKED. So, since you do not know the root cause in this case, anything you do is a risk as far as putting out money and it not working.

So, what I would do in this case is simply pay to have a full scan run on it at the dealer or someone who has the DRBIII scan tool. They'll find it quickly (or NOT) and, you'll have the mode of failure. Again, it could be as simple as a battery connection gone south, a shorted supply, a sensor short at the supply, a shorted or stuck park brake switch or issue at the cluster / with the cluster itself. Many possibilities here for sure and, for each one, there's a whole bunch of tests required to root it out to which, one is the removal of the cluster and going through each section with a meter one at a time. This is not practical in your case due to not having a lot of experience and, it is quite time consuming as well.

Did you try disconnecting the CKPS and CPS to see if you get gauges back? See, if the 5-volt supply is shorting to ground, no matter if it's a new sensor or not, it will not work and it will cause a loss of that 5-volt supply to which, the PCM will NOT function thus producing a COMM failure here. Same symptom, different failure mode. I would have it scanned if such is not the case.

Usually, at the time of the PCM going south, it will produce a failure code.

But again, since the cluster is the main HUB to where data is trafficking, if there's a problem AT the cluster, nothing will work. The EMIC circuitry operates on battery current received through a fused B(+) fuse in the Junction Block (JB) on a non-switched fused B(+) circuit, and on battery current received through a fused ignition switch output (st-run) fuse in the JB on a fused ignition switch output (st-run) circuit. This arrangement allows the EMIC to provide some features regardless of the ignition switch position, while other features will operate only with the ignition switch in the Start or On positions. The EMIC circuitry is grounded through two separate ground circuits located in one of the two instrument cluster connectors and take outs of the instrument panel wire harness. One ground circuit receives ground through a take out with an eyelet terminal connector of the instrument panel wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud located on the left instrument panel end bracket, while the other ground circuit receives ground through a take out with an eyelet terminal connector of the instrument panel wire harness that is secured by a nut to a ground stud located on the back of the instrument panel armature above the inboard side of the instrument panel steering column opening.

The PCM, ABS, ECU (diesel) are all tied to the EMIC so, if it's not working, this too results in a COMM issue.

CM

 

Ha ok found myself a FSM ( Look at me getting with the acronyms LOL ) Started reading brings back memories of being in the military reading TO's ( Technical Orders ) Anyway:

According to the manual I found or maybe my freakin truck the test stops until you poke that damn trip button again!! Then who da thought but the test continues!!

Digital dashes walked and dashed, lights came on and gauges ALL went throught their sweeps!!!

CKPS and CPS being disconnected one at a time made absolutely no difference. ACE is calling me I think its just about PCM time LOL...

 

According to a master mechanic at Dodge, if the test does not proceed on it's own- there's an indication of a failure at the cluster level. FYI It's supposed to run through the test on it's own and, if it fails to do so, something to do with the cluster may have to do with that.

Have you pulled the cluster out and checked all the wiring and such? If you've got money, you can simply try a new PCM and see if it remedies the problem or not.

If it does, you're good to go but, if not, you're back to square one. But, it could be the PCM too. It's happened on here once that I remember on a NO BUS issue and, after factoring everything out, the PCM was replaced and all was back online.

Now, the CKPS supply was also noted by Dodge as a failure mode for the cluster not working / going out. Now, even with the sensor removed, you still could have a short to ground at the supply TO one or more sensors which, will take the PCM offline. It will not boot up past 3-seconds. SO, it's not at the sensor level but back in the supply that feeds them that may have a short to ground condition thus disabling the PCM and, you'd find that out when you install the new PCM.

This short will not harm or kill the PCM as it's protected by means of auto-shutdown / powerdown failsafe mechanism at the software / firmware level.

You should measure to see if you've got power to the sensors. You should see 5-volts at any given sensor as the supply that feeds them is common. If you've got voltage there- even for 3-seconds, this means that the supply is not shorted to ground thus, factoring that out.

I would also pull the cluster out completely, clean up all the connections, remove all the bulbs and test them to ensure that they are working, clean the grounds, sockets and then put it all back together and retest. If at after that point, you still get nothing, it would be assumed that it's looking more like a problem at the PCM.

Have you tried removing the PCM connectors and reinstalling it? Possible bad connection.

Do you have one of those large under-the-dash connectors that is held in place with one fastener in the center? IF so, you may want to unbolt it, clean it, blow it out etc, and reconnect it and retest.

At least go through and do all the simple things to rule those out.

But, it is totally possible that the PCM is malfunctioning on that CKT. It's not dead as it powers on the EFI system for 3-seconds, which, according to the manual, is the MAX allotted time until the ASD relay shuts it down. And, since the cluster messages are relayed back to the PCM via CCD, it's also totally possible that a fault at the cluster level was transmitted to the PCM and then shut down.

The cost for running a full electrical sweep and scan was 200.00 last time I checked. It would be a good idea in my opinion so that you can at least obtain information as to what's really wrong. The last thing you want to do is put a new PCM in and have it fry because some other CKT was toasted.

CM

 

Well PCM and ABS module shipped for repair!!! I'm in the hands of ACE and Module Master thanks again for everyone's advice I'll keep you updated when I get everything back!!!

 

First off I want to thank everyone who has offered some advice to help bring my baby back to life especially Cmckenna!!! Now for the Update!!! Sorry its taken so long but I have been working a lot of OT at my job and just haven't had the time. Anyway I got the ABS Module back from Module Masters in about a week from the day I shipped it. Got the PCM back from ACE (Auto Computer Exchange) in about 4 days. Dropped everything in and she fired right up! Hmmm wish that was the end of everything but sad to say its not. Now I have an engine light, I have to head over to a friends and get his reader to see what codes are present if any or if it can just be reset. I ran the Instrument Cluster test again and it flies right through with no codes!! Still has the rough idle at first when I start which smooths out after a bit. I did notice now when I have the rough idle I hear a semi loud hiss coming from what I perceive to be the TB. Sounds like the damn IAC but I just replaced that a month or so ago. Oh well it sure was nice to take her out for a drive again!!! Will be freakin awesome when I can get to work on upgrades and all this is behind me LOL!!! Thanks again...

 

Awesome! Let us know what codes ya come up with.