Puzzled with AC problem
On the passenger side near the firewall sits your accumulator. It is a black canister with green connector plugged into it with the ac lines running through it. You pull the connector and stick a paper clip in the connector to jumper/short the connection. Don't be afraid, this is the same thing that the switch does when the pressure increases. You will hear or should hear your compressor kick on.
I am no fan of replacing parts as a form or troublshooting, but in this situation if you don't have a set of gauges, tossing in a $14 part isn't really a big deal. A can of refrigerant will cost about the same.
I am no fan of replacing parts as a form or troublshooting, but in this situation if you don't have a set of gauges, tossing in a $14 part isn't really a big deal. A can of refrigerant will cost about the same.
My compressor won't kick in at all... period. I was told that if the pressure is low enough that it won't. Is this true? This is why I wanted to jump it to see if I could get it to go for a second before buying a kit.
I bypassed the clutch cycling switch with a paperclip per the Haynes manual which made the clutch run constantly, this gave me an accurate reading of pressure and allowed me to fill it up to the proper R-134 level. Once I did that I reconnected the plug to the switch and it runs just fine now, no cycling and very cold air.
Looks like it was low coolant and even though I filled it the clutch kept cycling and it didn't take enough, it would show that it had about 40 (on)/100 (off) psi but when I finally bypassed the switch it was actually less then 20 psi.
So no new parts and I finished off the can of R-134 that I had in the truck.
Looks like it was low coolant and even though I filled it the clutch kept cycling and it didn't take enough, it would show that it had about 40 (on)/100 (off) psi but when I finally bypassed the switch it was actually less then 20 psi.
So no new parts and I finished off the can of R-134 that I had in the truck.







