Hello
I have no idea on what to do next . I have tried bypassing pin 85 from ecm to ASD relay , didn't work .
What the truck is doing is...
It will randomly die , all gauges will stop while driving and the hole cluster shuts down , The odometer display will say NO-BUS and there is no CEL .
After a few minutes it will restart like nothing happened. Once it died and the ASD relay was buzzing , So I thought it was related and I bypassed the relay's ground signal from the ECM directly to NEG on battery. Truck started and drove fine for about 30min like always then it died. It did not do the trick , ECM signal is good on that terminal .
Should I look for a instrument cluster and a ECM ?
Any body has heard of this before ?
What should I do next ?

I have read about a connector under the dash that gets loose also the one in the power module , I checked both and they seem fine .

 

Happened to me as well.2001 Ram 1500 2WD.I replaced all the relays that would be involved in this situation.still did it.I then made sure ALL the grounds from the computer and power distribution box(the one that connects to the front of the drivers front cylinder head) and have have not had an issue so far(note to self:find something made from a tree and knock on it).Mine would die after around 10 min. of driving.If the problem continues I am going to replace the secondary pick-up(cam position sensor) as well as the crank sensor.Check the cluster though.Push on the trip **** and then turn the key to the on position(do not start the vehicle)and hold the button till the odometer starts the check.On mine as well as others you will see the odometer have lights(LED, IDK?)that start to kind of go in a circular pattern.Release the **** and watch for all the gauges to see if they all sweep.If I remember they go full sweep then 1/4 then 1/2 3/4 then full sweep again.Something along those lines.If any of the gauges do not sweep then that is a problem in the cluster.Then pay attention to the odometer to see if a code comes up.Have a pen and paper handy to write down the codes.What I did after tightening and cleaning all the grounds was reset the computer by disconnecting the negative cable for awhile and turning the headlights on.That last part might be a little redundant but.....You are not alone on this.I for one feel that the grounds have worked there way loose.Don't forget the three grounds on the firewall on the passenger side.Good luck and I hope I helped as this was REALLY annoying problem for me.

Andy

 

The same thing happened to me. After driving about 30 min. on the freeway it would die and the odom. would say no bus. Even though the check engine light came on, the stealership couldn't find a code. I wound up replacing the pcm with a rebuilt from Auto Computer Exchange. Paid $300.00 and that fixed my problem. That was almost 2 years ago.

 

I have a 98 5.9 4wd thats doing that now. guages quit and it wont start at all. code reader wont read it either. checked all my relays and still nothing. this seems like a bad reaccuring problem i'm in the same boat though. i dunno wat it is to fix it. really need help with this.

 

I too have the same issue with my wifes 2000 Durango 5.9. It all started a few weeks ago. The check engine light came on so I scanned it and got O2 sensor malfunction. After replacing both and clearing the codes the light came back on saying O2 sensors again. The dealership said the Bosch O2 sensors don't always work with Chrysler. So I bought different O2 sensors. And once again the light came back on, this time saying torque converter circuit high voltage. I cleared the code and it was fine for a day or two. Then the light came on again. This time saying crankshaft position sensor malfunction and O2 sensors high voltage. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the light went off for another day or two. Then it started to die when I came to a stop and the light came back on. A few lights later it literally tried to take off on its own! As if I hammered down on the gas. I almost rear ended the car in front of me! After that, the ABS light, the airbag light, the security light, the brake light, and of course the check engine light all came on and went off at random. Then the odometer flashed a few times and read no bus. Even with all those lights on the scanner comes up with no codes. NONE of the gauges work while idling but start working when I start moving. While going down the road the gauges work one second then the ABS light and airbag light flash on, the gauges stop working, and then the lights go off and the gauges return to normal. And when I turn the cruise on the engine dies. No sputtering or anything. It just dies as if I turned the key off. Then a week ago it wouldn't even start. It just cranked but wouldn't turn over. I tried for 4 hours to get it to start and got nothing. Finally, after getting it towed back home, I tried to start it a few times and finally it just fired right up. I let it idle for about 10 minutes and then it just stopped. It would start right up but immediately die. WHAT A NIGHTMARE! After exhausting every possibilty other than just swapping out every part that could be at fault I took it to the Dodge dealer. They have had it almost a week. They said I most definitely need a new gauge cluster but that shouldn't cause it to die or not start. Well, the gauge cluster is $1,020+tax!! And I can't get salvage because they said it has to be programmed with my VIN and mileage! Is that true? Should I just try to flash the PCM? Would that even help? Would it help to just try unplugging one sensor at a time and see how it runs? If I spend the $1,020 on a new cluster and it still dies I'll be SOL. I can deal with a few guages that quit at random until I get some more cash. But I can't have my wife and kids riding around in a car that isn't dependable. The dealership still has no idea what's wrong with it. This appears to be a common problem with no common remedy.

P.S. Sorry for the novel.

 

Jesus ! I would off burn down the durango If it was mine . \

I'm this " close to trade her in for a newer diesel . The only thing that holds me back is that I just don't want another payment .
I'm gonna buy a crank and a cam positioning sensor give them a shot. If not then ECM it is.

Another thing
I disconnect the aftermarket alarm that the truck had (broken) and I got a CEL for fast idle valve, or something like that, The truck idles high now. What should I look into for that ?

 

OK. I fixed my truck .
I don't know how to fully explain the CEL I got at some point, but I drove the truck around the block and the CEL erased itself. I noticed that if I disconnected the sensor in the TB facing the firewall, I could get the same reaction from the truck (CEL & fast idle).

I found wiring diagrams for the crank and cam sensors on the MITCHELL web page. With a multimeter, I monitored the pins in the ECM for crank and cam sensors and checked for voltage interruption on both sensors. I would sit there and wait for the truck to die, which it did, and I would still have a signal on both sensors. Then I knew that it was not either sensors killing the truck at random.

I unbolted the ECM, which was still connected while the truck was running, flipped it around, and, with a small ball head hammer hitting the ECM in every square inch, I found a sweet spot where I can hit it every time and it would automatically stall.

I took a cut-off wheel and cut the edges of the ECM box to remove the motherboard. After carefully fighting the silicone sealed unit for a while, I managed to remove it.
I removed as much silicone as possible, plugged the ECM back on, started the truck, and found a 3 legged component (not sure if it is a resistor) causing the staling every time I would tap it. I attempted to re-solder it, although there was no cracks. I started the truck, and it wouldn't stall anymore from it being tapped or messed with. Afterwords, I test drove the truck, but the truck still stalled at random.

Then I ordered a re-manufactured ECM from EBAY. After I installed it and test drove it, the truck runs like a champ.

My advice... to others having similar symptoms.
Test your crank and cam sensors however you want (there is info on testing procedures out there), or test them doing it my way for voltage interruption.
If they check out good, save yourself the time and get a reman ECM . I do not recommend a junk yard one, because chances are, it will be defective. I paid $250 for mine with my VIN and miles pre adapted to match my truck's with a 1 year warranty from a place in Florida. The junk yard wanted $180. The dealer wanted $400 for the ECM (My cost. I'm a v.w tech.) plus $100 for adaptation of the ECM. It was re-manufactured too... so the choice was easy.
I spoke to one of the guys from the reman ECM business I bought mine from. As soon as I told him that I'm looking for a Dodge Ram ECM, he asked if the problem was random stalling. He said that it is very common on DODGE's.

Hope this helps with the common issue of random stalling/NO BUS on this truck's.
On a side note
I spent a ton of time trying to fix my ECM by myself with a magnifying glass, but I couldn't find a crack or defect on the motherboard.
Pardon my grammar.

 

mine was doing the same but i just pushed in my cluster and it would work again but it stopped giving me the issue