New Distributor, Now Truck Won't Start
#1
New Distributor, Now Truck Won't Start
1995 Ram ½ ton, 4x4 318 cu. in. I had to remove the distributor because while doing a tune up the dist. cap screw broke off. I did not mark the position of the distributor before removal... my very first dodge.
I've been working on this problem for too many evenings now. I have found this forum very useful in tracking down a cause. It is delivering fuel, I am getting spark to the plugs. The engine doesn't even try to start but, when I press the gas pedal it will choke and pop. So, I think the problem I'm having probably relates to fuel sync. Will turning the distributor have any effect on fuel sync? I'd like to get it running? Even just well enough to get to the dealership for fuel sync/tune up... and avoid the tow.
Thanks.
Jake
I've been working on this problem for too many evenings now. I have found this forum very useful in tracking down a cause. It is delivering fuel, I am getting spark to the plugs. The engine doesn't even try to start but, when I press the gas pedal it will choke and pop. So, I think the problem I'm having probably relates to fuel sync. Will turning the distributor have any effect on fuel sync? I'd like to get it running? Even just well enough to get to the dealership for fuel sync/tune up... and avoid the tow.
Thanks.
Jake
#2
#4
#5
Yes where your distributor is positioned is a very big deal and will throw the sync way off even if you just slightly off the mark.
Maxx wrote up a very detailed DIY on this specific tune-up, and I recommend you read it over. Should be in the FAQ or DIY section ....look it up, very useful stuff
BTW why did you replace the whole distributor over a broken cap screw? Same exact thing happened to me 5 weeks ago when I replaced my cap n rotor, pass side screw broke off (didn't PB or WD the screw)...And I just used a self tapping screw and had no problem doing that. It is very secure (damn near impossible to pull out with reserve bit due to location and major lack of room to operate...
Maxx wrote up a very detailed DIY on this specific tune-up, and I recommend you read it over. Should be in the FAQ or DIY section ....look it up, very useful stuff
BTW why did you replace the whole distributor over a broken cap screw? Same exact thing happened to me 5 weeks ago when I replaced my cap n rotor, pass side screw broke off (didn't PB or WD the screw)...And I just used a self tapping screw and had no problem doing that. It is very secure (damn near impossible to pull out with reserve bit due to location and major lack of room to operate...
Last edited by bigslick050; 08-25-2010 at 10:31 AM. Reason: Add more info
#6
I'm pretty sure I've got the correct wires going to the right plugs. I have verified spark at the plugs. As far as 180 off... when I installed the new dist. I cranked it around to tdc and pointed the rotor toward cylinder #1... umm, the actual cylinder, not the #1 prong marked on the dist... would that be correct or is that exactly how to do it wrong? And for replacing distributor over a broken screw, I tried using a reverse bit after I removed it but, the bit broke off and I never even thought of a self-tapper... Great tip.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Number one is at TDC twice.... once when it fires, (in which event, the rotor should be pointing at the number one terminal on the cap..) and once when Number 6 fires.... (and the rotor should be pointing at number 6...)
If you are 180 out, it won't start, but, it sure will make some rude noises.
If you are 180 out, it won't start, but, it sure will make some rude noises.
#9
And btw, the base of the distributor has a notch in it , the mounting bracket has a small tooth (for lack of a better word) on the bottom side in the center where it contacts the dist. If you tighten the nut slightly and rotate the dist you will feel it. At least both of my trucks have it.