Driveshaft problems
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 133
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From: Mechanicsburg, Ohio
Driveshaft problems
So after driving my truck i noticed that something was leaking from the back of the driveshaft,
it appears to be leaking right where the driveshaft connects into the back axle.
Does anyone know what the problem is?
I'll try to get some pics
it appears to be leaking right where the driveshaft connects into the back axle.
Does anyone know what the problem is?
I'll try to get some pics
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
pinion seal.
there's a couple different methods of replacing it. there's the "precise way" and the quick and dirty.
both start out the same.
put rear end up on jack stands
remove rear diff cover, drain fluid.
mark all aspects of drive shaft to trans and rear yoke. remove drive shaft.
mark the yoke to pinion shaft.
precise way - remove rear wheels, brake drums and measure rotational resistance with 1/4 inch, inch-pound, beam style torque wrench. write it down. there's a range for it, probably something like 20-40 inch pounds.
count the threads exposed beyond pinion nut, probably 2.
mark the nut relationship to the shaft with a punch, so you can come back to this EXACT point.
use impact wrench and remove pinion nut.
remove old seal.
install new National brand seal from Advance or SKF seal from Napa. don't use a timken or you'll have to do it again...
reinstall pinion nut to the exact original place.
precise way - check rotational torque, you want to get to the old value + about 3 inch pounds. you'll likely have to torque the nut to just "a smidgen" past the original point. like 3-4 minutes on the clock, not much.
quick and dirty way - hammer the nut just a smidgen past the original point. check the rotational feel.
reinstall everything.
don't try this without an impact wrench. the pinion nut is torqued to something like 200 pounds.
there's a couple different methods of replacing it. there's the "precise way" and the quick and dirty.
both start out the same.
put rear end up on jack stands
remove rear diff cover, drain fluid.
mark all aspects of drive shaft to trans and rear yoke. remove drive shaft.
mark the yoke to pinion shaft.
precise way - remove rear wheels, brake drums and measure rotational resistance with 1/4 inch, inch-pound, beam style torque wrench. write it down. there's a range for it, probably something like 20-40 inch pounds.
count the threads exposed beyond pinion nut, probably 2.
mark the nut relationship to the shaft with a punch, so you can come back to this EXACT point.
use impact wrench and remove pinion nut.
remove old seal.
install new National brand seal from Advance or SKF seal from Napa. don't use a timken or you'll have to do it again...
reinstall pinion nut to the exact original place.
precise way - check rotational torque, you want to get to the old value + about 3 inch pounds. you'll likely have to torque the nut to just "a smidgen" past the original point. like 3-4 minutes on the clock, not much.
quick and dirty way - hammer the nut just a smidgen past the original point. check the rotational feel.
reinstall everything.
don't try this without an impact wrench. the pinion nut is torqued to something like 200 pounds.