I have a pretty big problem. I need to change my driver side axle seal on the diff. I already changed it about 5 months ago and now its leaking again. For this side do i need the seperator? and do i need to take out the whole inside of the diff? and is there a tool i can use for the drivers side cause i did the passenger side one and its mint no leaks nothing. thanks for the help

 

its on the front diff

 

Been a few threads on this, might even be a DIY..... Some have used a strap, and a come-a-long to pull the front diff, and yes, it needs to come out. I have seen a fair few folks use a length of threaded rod to drive the seal into place.

If the seal you replaced less than half a year ago is already leaking, might want to look around for WHY it is eating the seals. Could be anything from a worn spot on the axle, to bearings going bad.

 

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html You will also need to remove the CAD and the intermediate shaft from the passenger side.


P.S. Put ALL the info about your truck in your sig! Before this crazy guy we have around here, gives you a hard time about it.

 

so i do need the seperator to put back the posi unit into place

 

I thought you said "you" replaced the seal 5 months ago? Did you forget how? Some one else did it right? That's why it was expensive, it's not an easy job and alot of tools are involved. The diff should go back in without a spreader, but unless you have a lot of other tools and do the research, it's not an easy job.

And btw, put ALL the info about your truck in your sig! Before this ***** we have around here gives you a hard time about it.

 

you don't need a case spreader (seperator).
for the driver's side - you do need to remove the carrier/differential/chunk. it comes out as one complete unit, LSD and all. you don't disassemble it. it take patience and little bit of force to remove it. i used a come-along to put that little extra bit of *** into the pull and it popped right out. see the pavement sucks diy. keep the carrier bearing caps straight, and in the proper orientation. do NOT mix them up.

you'll have to buy or make a seal insert tool to seat it. i used big threaded rod and big washers. its critical that the washers catch the seal properly at the metal ring, and do not pull on the rubber or the spring or it'll ruin it in a flash. if you have to used multiple layers of washers like i did, tack weld them together so its sturdy and not flopping around and getting out of alignment. i can get a pic if you need one.

and then here's the BITCH of it all. to remove the carrier you have to slide both axles out, which means you have to remove brakes, caliper mounts, bearings, axles, cad, and slide passenger side INNER axle out a little.

its an all day or more job. when reinstalling axles, slide them in GENTLY and avoid pushing dirt into the seal or you'll be doing it again.

while disassembled, check axle half bushings, bearings, cad collar, axle splines at cad for smooth operation. after 10 years or so, all that ****'s worn out and needs replacement.

 

You DON'T need the threaded rod tool for the driver side! Other than that, what DV said.

 

i didn't have a hand held tool that worked worth a flip for knocking in the drivers side, so i used the same threaded rod tool with a different size seal end washer. worked like a champ.

i'd like to strangle the mother ****er that designed the d44 and put the seals at the inside of the tubes. i suppose he thought it was such a good design that everyone would want to disassemble it every so often and admire the chunk while changing $10 seals.

 

if this is your first seal, get a couple; they're easy to ruin..... if you don't need em, sweet, just return it....