i was going to say - i hope you're not using timken's. they make good bearings but their seals suck. napa(skf) and National have twice the metal in them and are less likely to distort.

make sure your seal pulling tool is the exact diameter of the outer metal ring of the seal. i ***'ed up a couple before i got my seal tool sized right.


HA HA. here's the proper precision made tool LOL

i used 5/8" rod, then washers of size 5/8, 3/4, maybe 1". tack welded the bigger one onto the 5/8, then ground it down to 2-1/4 which was the size of the seal. i know its ugly but it worked.

 

Well, here the precision made tool I was talking about. And no welds to make the seal sideways.

 

Oh, sorry about that.
The Spicer PDF I was looking at showed another seal mounting in the CAD but now that I'm paying attention I see it is listed as tube seal.

 

No prob, all d44's are not created equal. As a matter of fact, some even have a seal located at the end of the axle tube by the ujoints. Which are not really seals, they are basically just dust covers for the tube. Which btw, are available in the aftermarket even for d44's that don't have them stock.

 

ok i guess ill have to get the specialty tool from quad 4x4. how do you check the bearings and bushing for being worn?

 

Remove the CAD housing first, before anything else, just stick your fingers in there and see if you have any play. But since the whole thing will be apart, you should replace the bearing(a composite or a brass roller type bearing) and the bushing in the end of the outer shaft anyway. I use the composite bearing as opposed to the roller. It is longer/deeper, and if any wear has occurred from the roller it will ride on an unworn part of the intermediate shaft as well.

 

i also replace the big bushing with the bearing. they are interchangeable.
here's part numbers
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-bearings.html