Well, it's been a while since I have posted here. Just thought I would give you all a little bit of an update.

I am still experiencing the rough idle problem which has been plaguing me since last winter. I have found out that it doesn't only occur when the weather is cold, but only on a cold start. Still trying to figure out what the problem is, but I will get to that later.

Just got an aftermarket exhaust put on, CAT and muffler. I forgot the brand of the muffler, but I was told it sounds like a Flowmaster. It gave my truck a nice low rumble which is what i was going after. I also got my rear drums replaced, and the wheel cylinders.

I also am in the process of doing the lower half of my truck with Rustoleum Bed Liner. I got the doors and the bed done, but am waiting on the rocker panels because there is about 4 fist-sized holes in each. Thinking about doing a little bondo work, then painting. There isnt much hope for them, and I don't have the cash to get them cut off and replaced.(Might try to get some pics today)

And this brings me to my questions:

In my effort to find out the cause of my rough idle problem, I have looked at the PCV valve. When I shake it I hear a rattle, however there appears to be a thick coating of engine oil inside of it. Does it need replacing? I know it cannot be cleaned, but I am unsure if it is worth replacing. I know it is only 3 dollars, but I figured I would ask.

And my second question: I bought my truck at the end of august last year, and the spark plugs have never been looked at to my knowledge. The manual I have says that they need to be replaced every 30k miles, and that they are easy to check. I have saved up money, and figure that they could do with replacing. With my understanding, you remove the wires attached to them by a half turn, then using a spark plug socket you remove the plugs one at a time. Then you torque them to 30 ft-pounds. The problem I run into Is that I do not own a torque wrench, and cannot justify buying one for something that I would only use every 30k miles. Could I just tighten them with a regular socket-wrench, or is it vital to torque them to 30 ft-pounds? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

PCV valves can be cleaned, but they're so cheap it seems pointless. When it comes to PCV valves, replace them any time you question whether or not they're working. Leave a bad one in, and it's going to cause expensive failures.

There's no reason to worry about hitting the spec torque values on the plugs. Just put the old calibrated elbow to it. A little copper anti-seize on the threads won't hurt, and don't forget the dielectric grease to keep the boots from sticking to the insulators.

 

Ok...if you have had a rough Idle for a while and are not sure when the last plug/wire change was ...than it is time to change them. to remove the spark plugs ..
1 - grab the wire by the Boot Portion, turn half a turn and pull up ( boot only not the wire)
2- Next blow out or vacuum dirt and debris from around the sparkplug (you don't want it falling in ) I used a small but long flat screwdriver to free up the dirt and caked on mud around the plugs then blew them out with an air gun , a can of compressed air/keyboard duster would work.
3-Use Ratchet and remove plug with 5/8 socket and required extension
4- Coat threads of new plug with copper anti-seize ( threads only )
5 - Insert new plug and start by hand until you can no longer turn
6- Use ratchet and 5/8 socket to tighten snug ( do not over-tighten)
Personally I have never torqued a spark plug
7- put some dielectric grease into the end of the wire boot
8 - Push Wire Boot back over Spark plug until you here a click and then check connection by pulling up on boot gently.

Copper anti-seize - http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_b.htm

Spark PLugs -
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-my-truck.html
Cap and Rotor-
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...r-r-and-r.html

 

Thank you all for the help! Looks like I am making a trip to the auto-parts store

 

NGK recommends about a 1/3-1/2 turn past the finger stop point on plugs with washers.

 

Good news! I didnt break my truck!

Picked up a Purolater PCV valve, and installed that.
I went with the NGK V-Power 4291 spark plugs, and succesfully installed 7 of them. One of the old spark plugs did not want to come out, neither me or my father could free it. I think I'm going to ask one of my friends in auto-shop at school to try and get it free, or take it to a friend of the familys repair shop.

I'm planning on posting pics of the old spark plugs/PCV valve sometime in the near future. The old spark plugs were Champion rc12lc4, if that means anything.

 

Pics! Excuse the blurryness










EDIT: I think the reason for the hard time getting the spark plugs off was that the valve covers have been leaking since I bought the truck, on both sides... What would you guys rate the difficulty of changing the valve cover gaskets? Is it easy to screw up? Keep in mind I am only 17 years old. Also the bolts/screws that keep the valve cover on are very rusty. I would like to replace those, but I cannot find replacement screws on Advance auto parts website( one of the only auto part stores in my town). I have looked at the DIY for the harland sharp rocker install, and it seems fairly simple to take off the valve covers.

Thanks again!

 

Not hard to replace the valve cover gaskets. Is a little aggravating getting a tool on the bolts in the back near the firewall and moving the wire loom, etc to get to the bolts and studs. I just did it a few months back. Used fel pro gaskets and have no leaks as of yet. Don't know where you'd get a bolt kit at, but you could take one out and take it to the parts store and match it. 2 or 4 of them are studs, not bolts. Auto parts store should have those too.

 

My opinion on the valve cover gaskets: JFDI. ("Just ... Do It"). Man up and go for it.