melted inline fuse
It's not uncommon with inline fuse holders protecting relatively heavy loads -- if it's the common 3AG inline holder with 14AWG or 12AWG wire, you'll just need to replace it with something that's got more meat to the fuse contacts and bigger wire.
it's a derale e-fan relay kit that came with my fans, (procomp) ebay. It would run 200 in the shade and would shoot up to 230-250 running. id have to shut her down, and let her cool. replaced the t-stat to day and was still running hotter than it should. i figured the fuse inline to the relay was too small took a look and wow. So I wet to wally world and bought an inline fuse kit, should I do this or get another relay. Also noticed yesterday that the temp switch that turns my fans on wasn't working, I had to leave the toggle switch on. the 12v source was wired to a junction, the I removed it and moves it to the battery
what temp should i be running at i thought 200 or less. the block is bored .020 over and was told this would make it run hotter.
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That'll do it.
Don't run smaller than 10 gauge to an e fan. That'll give you a minimum of 27 amps continuous load. If the fans take more juice than that, you need even bigger wire.
I also do not think a crimp only connection is good enough for a fan setup. You need to either solder the connections or use crimp and heat activated adhesive terminals and butt connectors. There's just too much vibration in both the fans and the vehicle to hold crimps. I learned that the hard way too.
Don't run smaller than 10 gauge to an e fan. That'll give you a minimum of 27 amps continuous load. If the fans take more juice than that, you need even bigger wire.
I also do not think a crimp only connection is good enough for a fan setup. You need to either solder the connections or use crimp and heat activated adhesive terminals and butt connectors. There's just too much vibration in both the fans and the vehicle to hold crimps. I learned that the hard way too.



