Auto trans check valve delete question
I have read the info for this under the FAQ section and I have a question.
Is there a reason why we don't just unscrew the end of the line out of the radiator and cut off the hose section, and cut off the hose section at the other end and simply use two 3/8" compression to 3/8" hose barb fittings and simply install a section of 3/8" id trans hose with 2 clamps? The end result is the same, it's a whole lot less complicated and you eliminate the reducer to 1/4", thus allowing the full 3/8"id to continue right through?
I'm not tryin to be a smart *** here, believe me I have read this forum for weeks and appreciate all the information here, I'm just wondering if this check valve delete could be made even better and easier.
Thanks for all the information here and thanks to anyone who gives me some feedback regarding this.
Is there a reason why we don't just unscrew the end of the line out of the radiator and cut off the hose section, and cut off the hose section at the other end and simply use two 3/8" compression to 3/8" hose barb fittings and simply install a section of 3/8" id trans hose with 2 clamps? The end result is the same, it's a whole lot less complicated and you eliminate the reducer to 1/4", thus allowing the full 3/8"id to continue right through?
I'm not tryin to be a smart *** here, believe me I have read this forum for weeks and appreciate all the information here, I'm just wondering if this check valve delete could be made even better and easier.
Thanks for all the information here and thanks to anyone who gives me some feedback regarding this.
here's what I did, and it is even simpler! I took the hose off and drilled the ball into pieces small enough to pull or blow out ( it's made out of soft rubber ) Then I pulled the spring and washer type ball seat out with a hemostat. cleaned everything up real good to ensure no pieces were left in hose.
hammer, i did what you described, cut the whole mess off and replace with new hose and clamps. works great, only costs about $7. since i was adding a cooler and filter, i used a tubing cutter to cut off the ends of the hard line at the radiator and frame.
seabass's idea will also work, and costs nothing, but you have to put back the original hose. so if your hose is good, this is a good idea. if your hose is rotten and leaking, then you've still got a problem.
seabass's idea will also work, and costs nothing, but you have to put back the original hose. so if your hose is good, this is a good idea. if your hose is rotten and leaking, then you've still got a problem.
This has to be one of the simplest mods ever! Just for S&G I did inspect the check valve and clean out the hose, it was amazingly very clean!
To say nothing of the piece of mind I'll have when I start my truck at -40 degrees!
Thanks again everyone!





