Transfer case fill plug stripped
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From: Airdrie
Transfer case fill plug stripped
I decided today I should check/change the fluid in my t-case. I went to remove the fill plug, but it is stripped. The 10mm hex does not sit flush and pops out when I try and turn it. I tried to hammer a little bigger torx bit in, but could not get it to budge. I didn't want to put too much pressure on and strip it more.
I have done a bit of searching and looks like (suggested by dhvaughan) was to cut a slot into it, and hit it with a punch. I tried but this didn't work either. The only other option I found was to weld on a nut. My concern with this, is welding onto a aluminum plug. My welding skills are not the greatest, but I do have a buzz box. Is it as simple as tacking on a nut? I don't have the ability to turn down the heat. I am afraid I will melt the plug.
I have sprayed a bunch of PB blast on it, I will do this a few more times and try again on the weekend.
While under there, I did notice a buildup of gunk. Hopefully it is not empty, that would however be my luck with this truck...
Any other options / suggestions?
I have done a bit of searching and looks like (suggested by dhvaughan) was to cut a slot into it, and hit it with a punch. I tried but this didn't work either. The only other option I found was to weld on a nut. My concern with this, is welding onto a aluminum plug. My welding skills are not the greatest, but I do have a buzz box. Is it as simple as tacking on a nut? I don't have the ability to turn down the heat. I am afraid I will melt the plug.
I have sprayed a bunch of PB blast on it, I will do this a few more times and try again on the weekend.
While under there, I did notice a buildup of gunk. Hopefully it is not empty, that would however be my luck with this truck...
Any other options / suggestions?
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
lets do this logically...
1. did you remove the drain plug yet? or does it still have fluid and drivable?
if drivable, you have more options.
2. does the fill plug protrude enough to grab the outside of it with a big pair of vise grips. you'll likely only get one shot at this, so make sure its a good pair of pliers, and get a really good grip. good idea on soaking it with pb blaster or similar oil. also consider a freeze product that will shrink the metal plug.
3. i'm not sure about welding it. i would hesitate to try it w/o the right equipment. but if its still drivable - you could drive it to a welding shop where they could tig weld it. they might build up the shoulder of the plug where the wrench is popping out.
4. i might use a dremel to deepen the hex shape. if it drills a hole in it, so what..
5. if there is any protrusion of the plug. i'd cut a slot in the edge and bash on it with a punch. again, if it collapses or distorts, so what.
1. did you remove the drain plug yet? or does it still have fluid and drivable?
if drivable, you have more options.
2. does the fill plug protrude enough to grab the outside of it with a big pair of vise grips. you'll likely only get one shot at this, so make sure its a good pair of pliers, and get a really good grip. good idea on soaking it with pb blaster or similar oil. also consider a freeze product that will shrink the metal plug.
3. i'm not sure about welding it. i would hesitate to try it w/o the right equipment. but if its still drivable - you could drive it to a welding shop where they could tig weld it. they might build up the shoulder of the plug where the wrench is popping out.
4. i might use a dremel to deepen the hex shape. if it drills a hole in it, so what..
5. if there is any protrusion of the plug. i'd cut a slot in the edge and bash on it with a punch. again, if it collapses or distorts, so what.
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From: Airdrie
Hey Doug, Thanks for the quick reply.
My answers are included in the quote below with **
Here is a pic of someone else's t-case. (This one is spotless compared to mine) Just to give everyone a idea what it looks like
compliments of hometheaterman
My answers are included in the quote below with **
lets do this logically...
1. did you remove the drain plug yet? or does it still have fluid and drivable?
if drivable, you have more options.
**No, The drain plug was not removed. No idea on fluid level.
2. does the fill plug protrude enough to grab the outside of it with a big pair of vise grips. you'll likely only get one shot at this, so make sure its a good pair of pliers, and get a really good grip. good idea on soaking it with pb blaster or similar oil. also consider a freeze product that will shrink the metal plug.
**The Fill plug is a "recessed" type. It has a 10mm Hex bolt which it's head sits flush with the case. Included a image below.
3. i'm not sure about welding it. i would hesitate to try it w/o the right equipment. but if its still drivable - you could drive it to a welding shop where they could tig weld it. they might build up the shoulder of the plug where the wrench is popping out.
**Good suggestion. I will call a few welding shops tomorrow and see what they will charge.
4. i might use a dremel to deepen the hex shape. if it drills a hole in it, so what..
**I will try this as a last option. I don't want to be stuck with a t-case with a hole in it
I guess thats what JB weld is for LOL
5. if there is any protrusion of the plug. i'd cut a slot in the edge and bash on it with a punch. again, if it collapses or distorts, so what.
**The slot I cut was on the face of the plug. There is no edge protruding past the case.
1. did you remove the drain plug yet? or does it still have fluid and drivable?
if drivable, you have more options.
**No, The drain plug was not removed. No idea on fluid level.
2. does the fill plug protrude enough to grab the outside of it with a big pair of vise grips. you'll likely only get one shot at this, so make sure its a good pair of pliers, and get a really good grip. good idea on soaking it with pb blaster or similar oil. also consider a freeze product that will shrink the metal plug.
**The Fill plug is a "recessed" type. It has a 10mm Hex bolt which it's head sits flush with the case. Included a image below.
3. i'm not sure about welding it. i would hesitate to try it w/o the right equipment. but if its still drivable - you could drive it to a welding shop where they could tig weld it. they might build up the shoulder of the plug where the wrench is popping out.
**Good suggestion. I will call a few welding shops tomorrow and see what they will charge.
4. i might use a dremel to deepen the hex shape. if it drills a hole in it, so what..
**I will try this as a last option. I don't want to be stuck with a t-case with a hole in it
I guess thats what JB weld is for LOL5. if there is any protrusion of the plug. i'd cut a slot in the edge and bash on it with a punch. again, if it collapses or distorts, so what.
**The slot I cut was on the face of the plug. There is no edge protruding past the case.
compliments of hometheaterman
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Hit it with chemicals, and then rap on your alan wrench with hammer. (driving it into the hole) Repeat that process several times, then try and put a little pressure on it, to see if it will come out.
If you have one of the cool impact screwdrivers, that you smack with a hammer, get a alan socket of the right caliber for that, and see if that won't convince it to come out.
If you have one of the cool impact screwdrivers, that you smack with a hammer, get a alan socket of the right caliber for that, and see if that won't convince it to come out.
Champion
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,811
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From: Ft Campbell, KY/TN
Here is what i would do:
Bring it to the dealer/quick lube shop and say you want your transfer case fluid changed.
Let them deal with it!!!
You will get a fluid change and a new nut in there!!
Sometimes you need to bite the bullet.
Bring it to the dealer/quick lube shop and say you want your transfer case fluid changed.
Let them deal with it!!!
You will get a fluid change and a new nut in there!!
Sometimes you need to bite the bullet.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
yep, its recessed in there deep.
i wonder if that's a dealer only part, or if its a common Dorman or Help part
do you have a dealer nearby? first thing to do is go get a couple of new plugs. this will give you an indication of how much metal you have to work with.
is your 10 mm wrench a straight bit, as opposed to a 90*. if not, get one that is, or else use a bolt head that you can drive in straight as Heyyou said.
i'd be tempted to take a small drill bit, coat the plug with heavy grease, and drill out the end of the recess in the plug. this will deepen it, say - 1/8 of an inch and give the tool a little more shoulder to bite into. i wouldn't panic if it goes all the way through. the grease will catch the chips. if it doesn't work, rtv will cover the hole.
i wonder if that's a dealer only part, or if its a common Dorman or Help part
do you have a dealer nearby? first thing to do is go get a couple of new plugs. this will give you an indication of how much metal you have to work with.
is your 10 mm wrench a straight bit, as opposed to a 90*. if not, get one that is, or else use a bolt head that you can drive in straight as Heyyou said.
i'd be tempted to take a small drill bit, coat the plug with heavy grease, and drill out the end of the recess in the plug. this will deepen it, say - 1/8 of an inch and give the tool a little more shoulder to bite into. i wouldn't panic if it goes all the way through. the grease will catch the chips. if it doesn't work, rtv will cover the hole.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
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From: Airdrie
Hey Guys, All gret suggestions. I don't have a impact screwdrver, but any excuse to buy a new tool
I am pretty sure it is a 10mm as 3/8 is around 9.5mm. The 10mm was a little better fit before I really stripped the bolt. I was using a Allen key. I probably shouldn't have seeing as the bolt was stipped to begin with. I just made it worse.
Just finshed blasting it again with PB. I will do this everynight till Saturday.
I will not be putting another stock aluminum plug in. I will look at the local hardware store for a bolt with a (i believe) 22mm course thread.
I am pretty sure it is a 10mm as 3/8 is around 9.5mm. The 10mm was a little better fit before I really stripped the bolt. I was using a Allen key. I probably shouldn't have seeing as the bolt was stipped to begin with. I just made it worse.
Just finshed blasting it again with PB. I will do this everynight till Saturday.
I will not be putting another stock aluminum plug in. I will look at the local hardware store for a bolt with a (i believe) 22mm course thread.
