I let it idle for at least 15 minutes last night and checked it idling in nuetral. I would think that it would be at least 7 quarts that is the part I don't understand.

 

For some reason it must not be pumping through the system. I'd pull the pan and see what it looks like in there.

 

Sounds exactly like not enough fluid (my car leaks atf constantly, and this is how I know when it needs filled again). I would drive it a short ways anyways since once engaged you're not hurting anything. Also you're using ATF+4 fluid correct, not dexcron/mercon?

I believe its 11 quarts to fill if the torque converter is dry, only 4 qts reside in the pan. So if you're transmission is not engaged (read: not in park) for at least a good 15-20 minutes BEFORE you check it, you're gonna get an incorrect absurdly high reading.

 

After lettng it sit overnight and then idling in nuetral for 15 minutes there wasn't a reading on the dipstick. I added another 2 quarts, making 6 total, and was able to get it in the parking lot that was a good block in length. I would back it up for a block and go into drive on the way back and continued that until I had gone through D, 2, and 1 with reverse in between each. Long story short I added a total of 10 quarts. Took it for a good drive hitting 40-45 and it shifted fine. It appears that, right now no problem. I drove it for a good 1-2 hours and it shifted fine. The check engine light is on and that is the least of my worries since over 10 quarts of fluid I'm sure got into some sensors in the engine bay. I will have to take the front wheels off and clean the brakes with brake cleaner they are pulling the backside of the wheels were soaked in tranny fluid. Any other suggestions on items to do. Thanks for all the input.

 

Pull your codes, and see what it is whining about.

Take the front tires off, clean the rotors on both sides. Use brake cleaner. Disolves the oils, and doesn't leave a residue. Take the calipers off, clean the pad surfaces as well, or, be sure, and replace them. (given how important being able to stop is, and how cheap brake pads are, I would put some new ones on there.)

Have you deleted the check valve in the trans cooler lines yet? Do that too.....

 

Not sure about your comment "Have you deleted the check valve in the trans cooler lines yet?" What do you mean by this comment? I plan to do the rotors and pads this weekend. Pulling the codes I will stop by O'rielly and see if I can use their code puller to do it.

 

If you look under the hood, up by the radiator, where the lines turn toward the radiator, one of the lines will have a flare nut, into a little metal gizmo, then crimped onto a soft line, then to the connector at the radiator. The little gizmo is the check valve. It is designed to keep fluid from draining back, when the engine isn't running. Trouble is, it tends to gum up, and stick shut..... so, no flow at all, and smoked transmission makes its way to the menu. (smells awful, tastes worse.)

You need the special tool to get the radiator side connector to release, and a couple wrenches to remove the other end. Take that piece of line out of there, and just replace it with some trans fluid rated line, and a couple hose clamps. Its a drag to get the line over the 'hump' that the radiator side connector hooks on, but, it is doable. On the flared side, it isn't that difficult. Then, simply use the hose clamps to secure it in place, and you are all set.

I have been running my truck this way for the last several hundred miles. I don't notice a change in transmission behavior, aside from the fact that it doesn't over heat any more.

 

Is that on the lower line or the upper line and is that at the radiator connections or a good 12" before the radiator?