edit - i type too slow.

crank position sensor is passenger side, very back of the block, sticking down in the top of the bell housing. sort of behind the oil filter.

no personal experience on trans removal. would it make sense to remove the t-case first, and then drop the trans, or pull it all at once? it looks heavy as hell. i know i wouldn't try it without a decent jack to chain it to.

i recall a youtube. i'll look for it.


coolant will gush out the freeze plug, but not from the crank sensor hole. before pulling the freeze plug, find the block drains hiding beside the engine mounts. one on each side.

 

this is not a very good video, but its something.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NO96EJLroxY

 

The transmission alone, once drained, will run right around 200 lbs. I haven't weighed a transfer case, but I'm guessing it's 50-60 lbs. I like to leave the transfer case attached, and use nylon tie-downs to solidly anchor the whole assembly to the transmission jack. While the chain might work just fine for a transmission alone, with the transfer case on the back it'll be looking for an excuse to succumb to gravity.

Standard labor for the job is six hours, FWIW.

 

300 isint bad really

 

i've never used one of these, and it might be just a death trap, but i'd want something of this nature to hold onto the trans and try to keep it from rolling off. this is about as cheap as they come, and there are much better ones.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ter-95640.html

 

Oooooo, neat. So long as it has some manner of securing it to the jack, that doesn't look like a bad deal at all.

 

that one's pretty cheap. i'd feel better if it had a means to really secure the trans to the jack to prevent roll. maybe a ratchet strap or two. like unreg said, the t-case hanging off the side will create some balance problems. i'd also want the jack adapter to hold securely in the jack, so if the mounting pin wasn't tight, i'd want to bolt it in. the last thing i'd want is a 300 pound trans/t-case falling off the jack.

 

Note that it has roll but no pitch adjustment. I'd pass on that one. Especially if I wanted the option to leave the transfer case connected.

 

what about this one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...jack-3185.html


or should i just go with a big race jack like this and some wood and a extra hand?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ack-34271.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...cing-jack.html

 

For transmission work, go with something like the first one. I don't trust Harbor Freight, but if the quality is good then it's the right style.

The last two floor jacks, well... for no more than it costs to rent a transmission jack, or even for the $130 price of the one at Harbor Freight, I'd recommend not risking that you might drop the transmission onto the hard ground or your head.