Ok i did the pressure test and it was 49 right on the dot. But the truck still will barely move nd if i floor it it jumps to 1000 rpms then slowly go to 3000rpm if i ;et off the gas it sorta dies down ! God why me ?

 

I don't want to spend your money, but I would try the crank sensor.

 

ok so i did another test and i tried reving the engine and it didnt rev very high and the neddle on the gauge was jumping all around. This engine has no power at all what soever ... i let it run for 1 min and turned it off and the headers were scalding !!!!!! Might try that sensor !

 

Ok i pulled the crank sensor and it was covered in black gunk.... also the wires had been cut then put back together by hand and electrical tape. The green wire had the actual wire showing where it had be scuffed up from the electrical tape. Hopefully this is the fix. Goig to get one only 40 bucks and put it on ... Keep u guys updated !

 

There is something seriously wrong here in this case. For starters let me explain something to you. If, the timing was way off, say, 180 out of phase, you still would not see cherry red headers.

That is indicative of either one or more of the following:

1. CAT problem thus, creating serious back-pressure and thermal loading upon the output side thus, the input side is not able to draw air, thus, sending the A/F mixture way out of whack thus, it won't run correctly. This condition leads to serious thermal loads being induced into the entire engine thus, causing serious damage. It should not be run for any length of time let alone trying to rev it for, if you keep doing this, you will induce a failure at either the valve train level (cracking of either the head, valves, burning the valve seals etc) or, you may end up overheating the combustion chamber itself thus cracking the cylinder wall.

If the CKPS were shorting out at the harness level: it would cause the PCM to shut down the PCM due to shorting out of the primary, five volt supply found to be internal to the PCM thus, the PCM would power off and, you would not be able to start the vehicle.

Clean the CKPS, fix the harness and lightly apply mineral oil to both sensor, grommet, then re-install it and test. The CKPS and CPS are the two primary MASTER timing reference sensors and, when and if they are out of whack, the engine runs bad, pops, backfires, no start condition, lumpy idle etc etc.

2. FUEL PUMP ISSUE: LEAN CONDITION

IF the fuel pump is going out, either at the regulator, at the supply, or, at the pump motor levels, this will induce either a lean or rich running condition to where, if it's running super lean, there's not going to be enough FUEL TO COOL the combustion chambers thus, thermal loading takes place thus, overheating the engine thus, the same failure modes as described above and worse- you can literally destroy the engine in a matter of minutes to blowing holes in the tops of the pistons by revving the engine under a lean fuel condition.

NOTE: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU TO REPLACE THAT RUBBER LINE ATTACHED WITH A HOSE CLAMP. WHY: First off, rubber is NOT compatible with modern fuel. I don't care who you talk to and if it's FUEL RATED RUBBER- I am going to inform you that it is not compatible with modern gasoline that contains a ton of fuel additives.

The first thing that will occur: the internal wall of the el-cheapo fuel line will start to deteriorate and, it's going to start to flake off in small particulates. Those make their way up the line and into your fuel injectors thus RUINING THEM. The second thing is, it will start to soften and lose it's material properties.

NOTE: IT IS UNSAFE to run a hose clamp of RUBBER ON METAL lines on an EFI equipped vehicle. While safe to run on a LOW PSI naturally aspirated, gasoline powered vehicle, it is NOT SAFE AT ALL to run on EFI systems. REMOVE AND REPLACE THAT LINE IMMEDIATELY with the correct rated PTFE line rated for high burst strength and chemically impervious to all fuel additives and solvents.

I assume the needle you were referring to was the FUEL Gauge needle was jumping all over the place? Or, was it your RPMs that were bouncing?

FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST: NON - OPERATIONAL TEST

- With engine <OFF>

-Place a fuel pressure gauge off the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.

-Turn KEY <ON>

-NOTE READING ON GAUGE: NOTE: with one KEY <ON> event, PSI should read ~50 psi when COLD and, it should hold pressure for a MIN of five minutes at 30 PSI.

<IF> it takes MORE than ONE KEY <ON> event to prime to FULL operating pressure- there's an issue and, it's either one or more of the following:

- low voltage to FUEL PUMP MOTOR due to voltage drop somewhere in CKT at either, source or GROUND FAULT at PCM, or, in wiring harness under the firewall all the way to FUEL PUMP connector

- FUEL PUMP motor is worn thus, not able to meet OEM psi ratings / spec.

- FUEL PUMP REGULATOR is shot thus, not able to meet OEM specs etc.

- FUEL PUMP RELAY is shot and shows high contact resistance / voltage drop

NEXT: You also may have a problem at the injector level across the board at the driver level at the PCM thus, not opening and closing them in time thus, the reason for the PSI on the fuel pressure gauge to bounce around due to either being stuck open too long thus, creating a large drop in pressure to, closing them thus, quickly building up to full operating pressure thus, the bobbing of the needle. Since the injector pulse width is based on other sensors that tie into the PCM, a sensor based issue would be most likely the root cause for this to go out of whack.

NEXT; O2 Sensor: perhaps a spent O2 sensor is feeding back erroneous voltage readings to the PCM thus, leaning out the mix thus, running it hot thus, the headers glowing. HOWEVER: normally, that would trip an OBD code to which, the CEL would illuminate.

NEXT: MAP Sensor: you may have a fault in the MAP sensor. Since this is another Primary sensor used in conjunction with the PCM to control both timing map and fuel strategy, this is another one to look into. I had one go out recently and there was no code thrown. But, it wasn't to the extent of running bad like what you're describing either.

Again, you mentioned that NO codes were thrown and, usually, if a sensor goes out of whack- (iPhone ad) - there's a code for that.

Since you said no codes were witnessed and, at one point, it was reading low @ ~ 40 psi then, later on, it read 49 psi, based on the information provided, it sure sounds like a fuel delivery issue to where, you are running very lean.

CM

 

Ok i put the new crank sensor in and it still wont move. I try to rev it and it barelys goes over 1000 rpms. Then whe i let off it sputters and almost wants to die. Its a brand new pump so idk what else could be going on !

 

I had a feeling that wasn't the issue.

Now, here's what I want you to TEST 1st.

I want to know what the pressure is over five test runs while NON-Operational.

Please give me five readings at ONE KEY <ON> event. Get in, turn the KEY <ON>, wait 2-3 seconds and SHUT <OFF> Take a reading and note it.

Repeat the test five times after releasing pressure at the Schrader valve after each test run.

<IF> at any time during test the pressure FAILS to reach full psi of ~50 psi, there's an indication there's something at the PUMP level that is out of spec.

<IF> at any time during test the pressure immediately drops - there's a problem.

<IF> at any time during test the pressure readings are ERRATIC, there's a problem at the FUEL PUMP level.

Please start there and get back to me. I'm at work all night working on test plans and, I'll be around up until 8 PM EST. Once I have some information to go off of, I can start to factor out / rule out certain things to which, will quickly help you to root out the problem.

NOTE: DID YOU change the ID of the fuel line? I had read mention of this in this thread and have to ask to whether or not the ID of the line was altered from OEM design. IF the answer is YES- it should be noted that a change in pressure one way or another- smaller ID yields higher PSI while a larger ID drops pressure.

But, it would drop or increase and not fluctuate. Fluctuation is an indicator of an anomaly in the system and, it can be a few things such as a low voltage issue or, simply a worn out FUEL PUMP RELAY. Sputtering is usually associated with a FUEL PUMP that is not putting out full psi to OEM SPEC. But, again, please test that if you can and, we'll go from there.

CM

 

put new map sensor on and it still does it. I would rev it and it would bakfire out the carb.Also its sucking alot of air. Fuel pressure gauge needle was acting erattic. One said they saw sparks comig out the bottom of the cat. Also after only 3 mins headers were staring to glow as with the downpipe also. I will try these test but i hate this i need my truck for work !

 

did the test ... it goes to 45 PSI everytime. When i trry to start it it doesnt want to start.makes a loud hissing noise from carb. sucking alot of air. Is it possible im not getting enough pressure ~

 

OK OK OK .... When i remove the hose from the brake booster it seems to idle fine but when i plug it back up to the brake booster it stalls and sometimes dies .... Ok i was just thinking .... I dont have the tank fully installed.... i juss have it held up be jacks and the pump screwed on. I dont have the filler tube hooked up or the other little tube beside the filler tube. I was told i am loosing pressure there ... could this be ?????