New cam
upon first start up of the new cam, DO NOT IDLE the motor!!! Imeadiatly bring the motor up to 2,000 rpm and hold it there for at least 20 min. This will properly "break in" the new cam. Let the motor cool and then check for leaks. Even a good idea to warm your oil first.
Comp Cams makes some pretty good break in lube that sticks to the cam when installing and holds on it until you fire it up. If you have over 50,000 miles, you need to install new hyd roller lifters also.
Did you Degree your cam on intake centerline when installing?
Comp Cams makes some pretty good break in lube that sticks to the cam when installing and holds on it until you fire it up. If you have over 50,000 miles, you need to install new hyd roller lifters also.
Did you Degree your cam on intake centerline when installing?
You will need to set the fuel sync, otherwise timing of injectors will be off.
Dealer can do it (if they have a clue) or any decent garage. Or if any friend has a Snap On MT2500 or equivilant drb tool. Need to hold 1000-1200rpm when checking, if its a performance cam, set it so it bounces between 2-4*advance(turn dist). Stock cam set it for 0-1* advanced. If you have fresh timing set/chain then should only bounce by 1*.
Dealer can do it (if they have a clue) or any decent garage. Or if any friend has a Snap On MT2500 or equivilant drb tool. Need to hold 1000-1200rpm when checking, if its a performance cam, set it so it bounces between 2-4*advance(turn dist). Stock cam set it for 0-1* advanced. If you have fresh timing set/chain then should only bounce by 1*.
We have roller cams in our trucks, so, breakin is not quite so critical as on a flat/hydraulic tappet cam........ doing the suggestion above is certainly not going to hurt you though, and could be considered 'cheap insurance'.......
+1 on fuel sync.
If you cam is much meaner than stock, you are going to need a custom tune.
+1 on fuel sync.
If you cam is much meaner than stock, you are going to need a custom tune.







