You got more than one problem happening there.

What was clogging oil pump? That can be a sign of very serious problems. If you can turn the motor with a wrench, it's a good sign. The motor isn't seized up due to heat and lack of lube. You probably do have an electrical / starter problem. That isn't causing the pump clogging.

If the zero oil pressure thing was happening before the intake gasket change, it is likely the gasket change is not the problem. It looks like you have something disintegrating (or seriously gumming up) and dropping into the oil. What ever it is, it's getting worse and worse as time goes by. I wish I could tell you what to check.

 

Check connections at starter. Also, check all connections between the battery and the starter. (it isn't a direct connection.) Check the starter relay in the PDC. If the solenoid on the start is engaging, it is probably a main power feed issue. (the fat wire)

 

This all started when son decided to change the intake manifold gasket at work. He is a shop helper and mechanic did the work. Motor had excessive oil sludge build up on the intake. Mechanic cleaned it up but quiet a bit of it went into engine. On the way driving home motor lost oil pressure to zero several times then came back up. Dropped pan oil pump screen plugged up, bought new pump and screen cleaned out pan and all was fine. 20 miles later started over again with no oil pressure stopped at autozone and they said to pour in 1/2 can Marvel Mystery Oil. Drove about one mile, at red light lost oil pressure. Son turned off the engine and when light changed tried starting but only loud clicking sound like dead battery or bad solenoid. Bought new battery, still just clicking loud. Towed to mechanic shop by home and they said starter bad. Changed it but still the same. They took large socket and ratchet and motor turned. Said not locked up and after all day checking it could not get motor to turn over with starter.
He seems to think in fact the motor is frozen and starter not getting enough power to turn over the engine.
I thought if the engine can be turned with a socket and ratchet it is not frozen up but I am no mechanic.
Is there any other way to check and see if the engine is locked up.

Thanks

 

If you can turn the crank with a socket and ratchet, it isn't seized. (unless, the crank is broke......) The main power feed to the starter is, I think, at least two separate lengths of wire. Battery to PDC, PDC to starter. There is also a fuse (fusible link?) in the PDC. Check all connections, and verify 12volts on the fat wire at the starter.

 

Check the ground wire connection at the engine block.

 

make sure cam or crank sensor wires weren't crimped in intake during the install as well.

 

Took truck to shop and they changed the starter but still doing same thing only loud clicking. Mechanic shop decided that did not want to do any additional work on the truck that the 1st shop screwed up by allowing the motor to get full of gunk when changing the intake gaskets and plugging up the oil pump.
So towed vehicle to another shop, the 1st thing they said was starter. Placed a 3rd starter on it and the same loud clicking noise only.
They messed with it awhile and ran a couple of jumper cables from the battery to the starter and truck did start.
However, they said it needs shims to back the starter out and away from the flywheel to allow it to spin.
But it still will not start without using jumper cable wires from the battery to the starter. This is driving me nuts and costing me a fortune with all of this towing and shop repairs. According to Auto Zone truck does not have a fuseable link to the starter.
Could someone tell me if this year model truck calls for shims and if I should look at a dealer starter. It really concerns me that when the truck died on the side of the road and made a loud clicking noise that after 3 aftermarket starters I am getting the same loud noise only. The truck did start with the jumper cables from battery to starter so that means the motor is not frozen....
Thanks

 

Does the starter make rude noises when they bypass the battery cable? If it doesn't, shims aren't going to matter.

No starter is actually 'designed' to require shims.... its all about manufacturing tolerances, there is always some variance..... if there is too much, then, ya need a shim. Generally, if the starter is too close... it will scream when you try and start the engine. If you are not hearing that, no shims are required....

Also, keep in mind, that battery cable down to the start is TWO pieces, that gives a lot of connections to get dirty, and not pass enough current to start the motor. Battery to PDC, PDC to starter. Follow the cable, clean all the connections, see if that improves its attitude.

 

What about getting the starter tested by itself? See if it works. It's rare but possible to get 3 defects in a row. Also make sure there giving you the correct part. There was recently a DF member that had a problem with a brand new Alternator that wasn't working. Turns out that the parts store gave him the wrong part. Just a thought.

 

Thanks to everyone for all their input, the problem solved. After 2 seperate mechanic shops telling me I needed starter and actually they changed it 3 times and a new battery the truck still would not start.
The problem was the battery cable that connects to the starter had quiet a bit of corrosion on it. Removed the cable from the started cleaned it off real good with a wire brush and it fired right up.
After 2 tow truck bills, starter changed out 3 times, new battery, and $375.00 in labor plus the price of the parts the problem was a corroded cable that attached at the starter.
2 repair shops could not find it but with the help of this forum I was able to fix the truck. That does not say much for these mechanic shops that I was using.

Thanks again to everyone for all of your responses and suggestions