I have installed the secondary battery tray and also had the problem to move the evap solenoid. So i shorted the hoses and reinstalled it a bit higher.

 

Don't forget to buy 2 new batteries and not just 1 new one to be installed with your old battery. The old battery will draw the new battery down to its power level causing its life span to be shorter. You always want to replace dual batteries at the same time.

Also, make sure that both the new batteries have the same specs.

I sure am glad my '96 doesn't have the emissions crap in the way of the second battery. It will make it easier for me to do the dual battery install.

 

That's what battery isolators are for. Too keep the batterys from discharging each other, when the engine is not running. That is why it is important to get a QUALITY battery isolator.

 

True, but if you don't use a battery isolator, then you need to replace both batteries at one time. Diesel Ram's don't have an isolator, the batteries are just wired in parallel.

 

I think diesels are wired in series, so the get 24 volts, instead of just 12.

 

No, the Dodge Cummins, Ford Powerstroke, and Chevy Duramax are all wired in parallel to get 12v. If they were wired in series in the Ford, Chevy, and Dodge then every piece of electrical equipment inside the truck would have to be 24v; that is simply not the case.

There are off road and stationary diesel vehicles and equipment (front loaders, generator sets, fire pumps, etc.) that have the option of being wired in series for 24v. The series wiring is typically an option in the smaller engines, but more of a standard in the larger engines.

 

There are a couple of ways to wire in dual batts, but it's all up to the how the aux batt is to be used. If you run them in parallel with or without an isolator when the batts die there is no back up. So a completely isolated aux batt is the next way, An isolated aux batt is just that, it has nothing to do with the trucks 12v system, yes it does get it's charge from the alt and they share the ground system but that’s it. By adding a lead and a 12v switched solenoid between the two batts pos posts you have added a boost line. So when one dies you push the switch and get up and running. This is why you add a batt isolator to the system. If you are just going to run the batts in parallel you won’t need an isolator. Use the aux batt for all your trucks accessories. Add a fuse panel off of it and wire in your stuff. Another way is to use a batt switch, it would be something like batt 1, batt 2, all batt, and off. And one more is the use of cut off solenoids. If you are making your own leads remember to solder the ends on and shrink-wrap, make sure you also use the right size cable for the job. And to disconnect the neg side of the batt before any work is done.

 

So, here are some pictures of what I did. Remove the two connectors to the emissions stuff. Take out the three bolts holding the bracket. You will also need to take off some of the connectors that hold the hoses and wires to the body. Just reroute the two wires and the whole thing moves forward of where the battery sits. No need to cut any wire or hoses if you don't want to. I will either bungy it around the battery once it's in or figure out some kind of way to bolt it down.

 

If I were doing this... I would probably get a kit like this:

http://12voltguy.com/web/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=43

It allows you some flexibility...

 

No, if YOU were doing this, you'd come up with some crazy awesome elaborate setup a la your onboard air system!