I do remeber installing the gaskets correctly, they where labled which side had to go towards the plenum and you would really have to try to get them on upside down seeing as they had those head gasket cutouts on the ends. I am just heading out the door to start working on it starting with a retorque with some added ft. lbs. hopefully that does the trick.

 

do not over-torque the intake.

the intake acts like a wedge down into the block, if you overtorque the intake, you'll either crack the intake like an egg, or pull the block apart and crack it at the cam tunnel. neither is a good idea.

I know that 14ft/lbs. sounds like its barely anymore than 12ft/lbs. But it's actually about 18% more torque than the intake was designed for. it's not a good solution IMHO. 12.5ft/lbs would be a better bet.

It's odd, because this is the one place I've never seen coolant leak from in my engine. Tstat housing, heater lines, waterpump and timing cover, yes. Never seen it leak from the manifold or head gaskets.

 

like everyone is say, its those front bolts by the water passage i would be looking.

Though when i did mine i left the front drivers side bolt out cause i broke it off.

 

I feel your pain, when I did mine I finished everything and cleaned everything up. Only to break off the coolant temperature sensor into the manifold at the end.

 

Well i never did get to the truck. I went to work on it then I ended up just cleaning the garage and organizing tools. working 7 10's so it is hard to find the time to get to work on it.

 

just run 'ah...she'll be good lol

 

well I finally got to working on the truck and found the coolant leak after doing some searching. The leak was actually from the threaded adapter piece the threads into the top of the water pump were the hose connects. The threaded pice wasnt even sealed and threaded in tight, it was reaslly loose and it is a brand new GMB water pump from the partsbin.com. I got the truck back together and started it up, no leak, but she still runs rough and backfires out the intake when you stomp on the gas. im not sure but i think that it may be from the 21lb/hr accell injectors that i installed, and of course i dont kave any of the old injectors. SOB! I just want the truck to run good so that I can use the damn thing to haul my new 2010 arctic cat F8 up north and get some miles on her.

Also when I did the plenum repair i did the kegger mod since i had access to a bridgport at school. I got a different plenum that was a non egr so i didnt have to go through the process of blocking off the port, but now i am stumped as what to do with the electrical connector that connected to the egr assembly. Right now i have it plugged in and laying there so that i wouldnt get an EGR code.

 

there's another thread going on about injectors, and the differences in years, and pressures, and delivery rates.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ectors-go.html

where are your old injectors? and why can't you reinstall them?
could you get an exact original set from the junk yard for your year and engine.

 

seems like I read a thread about the throttle body's would not interchange between the egr and the non egr intakes. They have different TB.

 

Accel injectors tend to fail when pressurized above their rated amount, but typically that's about 20psi too much not 6psi.

Id verify the plug wires are on snug, as a loose one will fire fine at idle but miss at higher RPMs. Also think about swapping all the plugs or at least checking the gaps. Its rare, but bum plugs do exist.

Might want to verify the coil resistance too. A bad coil tends to act up when it gets pushed harder.