Installed the hughes plenum repair kit and I believe I failed
#21
#22
Here.... http://www.nmbuilder.com/Dakota_RT_mods.html
Last edited by Adobedude; 01-01-2011 at 08:42 PM.
#23
Bah...I've been using the same button top Stainless Steel bolts on numerous intake installs for years. NEVER had a problem.
Here.... http://www.nmbuilder.com/Dakota_RT_mods.html
Here.... http://www.nmbuilder.com/Dakota_RT_mods.html
btw- followed your link.. that is one nice kota dude.. it certainly looks like you know your stuff! I really dig the location of your gauges.. I would never have thought of that.
Last edited by drewactual; 01-01-2011 at 09:03 PM.
#24
No one I know any Dakota R/T forum uses em, and we're talking some 10 second trucks here...
#26
I think there is a misunderstanding here...
The manufacturor used TTY bolts on the intake manifold. My guess is that they have a bit better clamping force at low torque yield.
You can use aftermarket grade 5 bolts and reuse them. I do, but I have found that I must use a dab of loktite to keep them from backing out. I also suggest stainless, as there is a lot of corrosion that happens to those bolts for some reason. I wonder if its due to condensation in the crankcase.
The manufacturor used TTY bolts on the intake manifold. My guess is that they have a bit better clamping force at low torque yield.
You can use aftermarket grade 5 bolts and reuse them. I do, but I have found that I must use a dab of loktite to keep them from backing out. I also suggest stainless, as there is a lot of corrosion that happens to those bolts for some reason. I wonder if its due to condensation in the crankcase.
#27
Accel injectors tend to fail when pressurized above their rated amount, but typically that's about 20psi too much not 6psi.
Id verify the plug wires are on snug, as a loose one will fire fine at idle but miss at higher RPMs. Also think about swapping all the plugs or at least checking the gaps. Its rare, but bum plugs do exist.
Might want to verify the coil resistance too. A bad coil tends to act up when it gets pushed harder.
Id verify the plug wires are on snug, as a loose one will fire fine at idle but miss at higher RPMs. Also think about swapping all the plugs or at least checking the gaps. Its rare, but bum plugs do exist.
Might want to verify the coil resistance too. A bad coil tends to act up when it gets pushed harder.
#28
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I gave a throttle body from a 96 a bit of a shave and put it on mine and I believe the 96's have EGR. No problems here.
By check that all the wires are correct do you mean routing? I had all four wires backwards on the driver side of the engine when I did my plenum because I read the routing diagram upside down. It ran fine at idle but when I revved it up I almost shat myself because it backfired.
Along with everything else that was done I also purchased the tune up kit from hughes so the plugs are brand new accell, new wires, cap, and rotor. Today I am going to go through and check that all the wires are correct and I am going to pick up some ngk plugs seeing as the is what my first choice for plugs would have been, and also I will test the coil for resistance.
#30
no egr in 96.....heard a couple people have had egr manifolds that where blocked from factory but never seen pics
I would check the plugs closely for cracks, while swapping them out, also get regular cheap copper plugs, none of them fancy metals you cant say right
Autolites and stock champions seem to work best in our motors while a few have had luck with fancy $5+ plugs most go back to the cheapies as they work better
I would check the plugs closely for cracks, while swapping them out, also get regular cheap copper plugs, none of them fancy metals you cant say right
Autolites and stock champions seem to work best in our motors while a few have had luck with fancy $5+ plugs most go back to the cheapies as they work better