Ya driving down the road in the ice pack was a real experience Im just glad i got it pin pointed to what caused the crazy pulling. Other then just the ring and pinion do i need anything else to change it out? Like new bearings / shims or can i reuse all other parts if they are in good condition?

 

since the install is a lot of time and money and your truck is over 10 years old, you should put in a new master install kit, which is new carrier and pinion bearings, pinion seal and nut. its about $100 more or less. you should also put in new axle seals. they're only about $10 each. also check axle u-joints, they're only about $30 each for the parts.

 

Ok last question for a while i think. To get the axles out of the way to get the carrier out do i have to disconect them from the control arms and pull the whole thing like i was doing the ball joints or is there an easier way?

 

Just need to pull the hub/bearing assemblies. If you not replacing the hubs, you don't even need to knock the axle nut off the end. (although, it DOES make getting the hubs off easier.... then tend to hang on pretty tight to the knuckle.) Once the hub separates from the knuckle, the axles will pull right out with them. On the passenger side, you need to take the CAD cover off, and slide the inner axle far enough out of the way so that the end clears the carrier.

 

no, you do not remove control arms or ball joints or any of that suspension stuff.

you do remove the wheels, brakes, big axle nut, and big hub/bearing.
then you gently slide the axles all the way out. you might hear a clunk as the collar falls off inside the cad. don't worry about it.

but, you're only 2/3 done.
next you remove the cad. passenger side, rear side of front axle tube.
note the chamfer is on the outside edge of the collar. remove it.

slide the passenger side inner axle outwards about 6 inches. this disengages it from the carrier, which allows you to pull the carrier. otherwise the carrier won't come out.

inspect the splines on the collar and the 2 axle halves. if there are any burrs or rough edges, and/or the collar doesn't slide on/off the axles as easy as pie, then remove the inner axle and file all the burrs off. burrs and tightness create a sluggish engagement/disengagement.

once the carrier is out - if you have the time and energy, remove the passenger side seal, then the inner axle half, and thoroughly clean the axle tubes. this takes a long time. at this point, you might as well go ahead an replace the 2 cad bushings for another $15 or so. hell, its the last thing in there other than empty tubes...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-bearings.html

 

^ damn. heyyou beat me to it again.

here, a picture is worth a 1000 words.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html

 

Thanks for everything guys i will let you know how it turns out. I have a friend who sets up these things for a shop so he told me if i do all the work to get the carrier out, cleaned and the new ring installed he would set the pinion for me so i will let you know how that works out.

 

damn good deal. where do you live - i'll bring mine too !!!!

 

for cleaning the axle tubes, sheriff made a tool on a stick that had the shape of the ID of the axle tube. it needs to be a good bit smaller - so you can slide it in, then scrape out all the greasy crap. i just used a 90* hook which wasn't as good, but sort of worked.

seating the seals is the most trying part. zman believes in the $150 tool from quad4x4. to save money, i spent all day cobbling up washers and rod, and welding and grinding. don't screw up this step, or it'll leak and you have to tear it all back apart, including removing the stupid carrier.