Transmission issues?
Oh darn inevitable rebuild, well I'm doing the fluid/filter change and I will read up on the band adjustment and do that as well, hopefully that helps. Thanks again for your time!
Definately adjust that band properly. If the band isn't adjusted correctly or it has been loosened over time your first to second gear shift will definately be delayed and quite possibly halted altogether.
The Intermediate/Front band is used primarily for your second gear shift. First gear, (in the Drive position) is accomplished through using the rear clutch, and second gear is accomplished through using the rear clutch in conjunction with the Intermediate band being applied. If that band isn't applied properly you will experience a delayed shift once speed criteria is met and throttle is released, or no shift at all if the band is too loose altogether.
Best way to do this is during a fluid and filter change. Also, to replace that bushing you are going to have to remove the valvebody anyhow so things really can't get any better. With the valvebody removed, there will be absolutely no obstructions to the adjustment screw for the band. That will greatly improve your range of motion for when you are doing this job.
To remove the valvebody, first jack the vehicle up and secure it on blocks or jackstands. Next disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. Go under the vehicle and disconnect the wires plugged into the driverside of the transmission near your shifter linkage. Disconnect the throttle valve and shifter linkage cables by gently popping them off of their sockets. Next get a 7/16 socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts securing the throttle valve and shifter linkage brackets from the shaft that rises out of the driver side of the transmission. Once bolts are loosened, not removed since removal isn't 100% necessary, use your hands or a flathead screwdriver to pry the throttle valve bracket off of the shaft that it's bolted around. Next use a small pick or a small hook of some sort to remove the E clip that secures the shifter linkage bracket to the lower half of that shaft it's secured to. Once E clip is removed, pry the shifter linkage bracket off of the shaft it was bolted around. Now, drain the fluid from your transmission pan, drop the pan out of your way, and you will have to find another E clip that needs removal. You'll have to use the shifter linkage bracket on it's shaft to expose that E clip. If I'm not mistaken, you will have to grab that bracket with your hand while it's on its shaft, shift the transmission into first gear by moving the bracket on the shaft foward towards the front of the truck and then that E clip will become visable. The E clip should be located between the shifter linkage shaft and the electrical connectors on the top driver side of the tranmission. Very good idea to use a pen magnet while prying that E clip loose otherwise when it pops out, it might dissappear. Magnet and pick are my recommended tools of choice.Once that E clip is removed, be very careful and push the shaft that it was securing up and away from the bracket it was installed in. Try not to disturb that shaft otherwise you will have to reinstall it and it's kinda a pain. Secure that shaft in it's place first chance you get otherwise make sure it doesnt move. Once that shaft is disconnected, remove the 10 bolts securing the valve body in place and bring it down. Some gentle prying might be necessary but it should come right out with some gentle rocking to get the electrical connector and shifter linkage/throttle valve shaft to slide out of the transmission housing. There will be a spring that falls out next. This is the accumulator spring, don't lose that! If you are gentle when removing the valve body the spring will remain seated on the valve body and that shaft that the E clip held in place wont fall out of place either. If not and everything just falls everywhere, just dont lose anything, and make sure everything is clean when you reinstall. Now you can finally replace that little tiny P.O.S. Bushing/Seal.
If everything is stock inside the trans, loosen the locknut for the intermediate band adjustment screw. It's located towards the rear of the bellhousing next to the shifter linkage/throttle valve shaft. Get a good inch pounds torque wrench and correct sized socket so that you can do this job without struggle. Tighten the adjustment screw to 72 inch pounds. After torqued down, loosen that adjustment screw exactly 2 7/8 turns. Use a permanent marker to create a reference mark as a guide. Now here is the trick. You have to torque the locknut around the adjustment screw to 30 foot pounds while holding the adjustment screw in place. My way is by holding the band apply lever down as far as possible to apply the band around its drum and to hold that adjustment screw in place while you torque down that locknut. Torque the adjustment screw locknut to 30 foot pounds. Band adjustment is done, now reinstall the valvebody with accumulator spring, parking pawl along with its E clip, fluid filter, transmission gasket and pan, all the brackets, cables, wires, etc... Now just fill her up with ATF+4, and test.
The Intermediate/Front band is used primarily for your second gear shift. First gear, (in the Drive position) is accomplished through using the rear clutch, and second gear is accomplished through using the rear clutch in conjunction with the Intermediate band being applied. If that band isn't applied properly you will experience a delayed shift once speed criteria is met and throttle is released, or no shift at all if the band is too loose altogether.
Best way to do this is during a fluid and filter change. Also, to replace that bushing you are going to have to remove the valvebody anyhow so things really can't get any better. With the valvebody removed, there will be absolutely no obstructions to the adjustment screw for the band. That will greatly improve your range of motion for when you are doing this job.
To remove the valvebody, first jack the vehicle up and secure it on blocks or jackstands. Next disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. Go under the vehicle and disconnect the wires plugged into the driverside of the transmission near your shifter linkage. Disconnect the throttle valve and shifter linkage cables by gently popping them off of their sockets. Next get a 7/16 socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts securing the throttle valve and shifter linkage brackets from the shaft that rises out of the driver side of the transmission. Once bolts are loosened, not removed since removal isn't 100% necessary, use your hands or a flathead screwdriver to pry the throttle valve bracket off of the shaft that it's bolted around. Next use a small pick or a small hook of some sort to remove the E clip that secures the shifter linkage bracket to the lower half of that shaft it's secured to. Once E clip is removed, pry the shifter linkage bracket off of the shaft it was bolted around. Now, drain the fluid from your transmission pan, drop the pan out of your way, and you will have to find another E clip that needs removal. You'll have to use the shifter linkage bracket on it's shaft to expose that E clip. If I'm not mistaken, you will have to grab that bracket with your hand while it's on its shaft, shift the transmission into first gear by moving the bracket on the shaft foward towards the front of the truck and then that E clip will become visable. The E clip should be located between the shifter linkage shaft and the electrical connectors on the top driver side of the tranmission. Very good idea to use a pen magnet while prying that E clip loose otherwise when it pops out, it might dissappear. Magnet and pick are my recommended tools of choice.Once that E clip is removed, be very careful and push the shaft that it was securing up and away from the bracket it was installed in. Try not to disturb that shaft otherwise you will have to reinstall it and it's kinda a pain. Secure that shaft in it's place first chance you get otherwise make sure it doesnt move. Once that shaft is disconnected, remove the 10 bolts securing the valve body in place and bring it down. Some gentle prying might be necessary but it should come right out with some gentle rocking to get the electrical connector and shifter linkage/throttle valve shaft to slide out of the transmission housing. There will be a spring that falls out next. This is the accumulator spring, don't lose that! If you are gentle when removing the valve body the spring will remain seated on the valve body and that shaft that the E clip held in place wont fall out of place either. If not and everything just falls everywhere, just dont lose anything, and make sure everything is clean when you reinstall. Now you can finally replace that little tiny P.O.S. Bushing/Seal.
If everything is stock inside the trans, loosen the locknut for the intermediate band adjustment screw. It's located towards the rear of the bellhousing next to the shifter linkage/throttle valve shaft. Get a good inch pounds torque wrench and correct sized socket so that you can do this job without struggle. Tighten the adjustment screw to 72 inch pounds. After torqued down, loosen that adjustment screw exactly 2 7/8 turns. Use a permanent marker to create a reference mark as a guide. Now here is the trick. You have to torque the locknut around the adjustment screw to 30 foot pounds while holding the adjustment screw in place. My way is by holding the band apply lever down as far as possible to apply the band around its drum and to hold that adjustment screw in place while you torque down that locknut. Torque the adjustment screw locknut to 30 foot pounds. Band adjustment is done, now reinstall the valvebody with accumulator spring, parking pawl along with its E clip, fluid filter, transmission gasket and pan, all the brackets, cables, wires, etc... Now just fill her up with ATF+4, and test.
Last edited by Slomojo; Dec 17, 2010 at 04:44 AM.
When you go in to fix the seals which need replacing but probably are not responsible for the weird behavior, adjust the bands and replace the filter. If that doesn't clean up your shifting, you're looking at a rebuild.
If you need a hand looking at it, give me a PM, neighbor. But I'm pretty darn sure that if band adjustment and filter won't fix it it's a goner.
If you need a hand looking at it, give me a PM, neighbor. But I'm pretty darn sure that if band adjustment and filter won't fix it it's a goner.
Slomojo, thank you very much for those directions, that is going to really help.
UnregisteredUser, cool are you in vegas too? One of my friends knows someone with access to a shop so they were going to help me do everything, but if I need any more help I will send you a PM for sure.
UnregisteredUser, cool are you in vegas too? One of my friends knows someone with access to a shop so they were going to help me do everything, but if I need any more help I will send you a PM for sure.
A shop would be the hot ticket.
Living in an apartment, I often find myself hiding behind a closed supermarket to do work on my truck, or paying someone else to do the bigger jobs and then fixing up their mistakes afterward. I can't wait to have my own garage again!
Well thanks everyone, looks like I may have lucked out for now. Changed the fluid and filter, and adjusted the bands, and so far no more slipping. Fixed the leaks I was having too, the pan gasket and shift linkage seal.
The shift linkage at the transmission seems good too, nothing was loose, is there stuff behind the dash that could be tightened at the actual shifter? The shifter is still pretty loose, it would be cool if I could figure out how to tighten it up a bit.
The shift linkage at the transmission seems good too, nothing was loose, is there stuff behind the dash that could be tightened at the actual shifter? The shifter is still pretty loose, it would be cool if I could figure out how to tighten it up a bit.







