A couple days ago I used 4 low to get through a snowy yard. I shut the truck off without taking it out of 4wd. When I went to leave I put it back in 2hi and pulled out on the road. It seemed to be dragging a bit but I was pulling a small trailer (about 1800 lbs) so I figured it was normal. As I got up to speed it I heard a howling from the front end. I had to go about a mile before it was safe to pul over. I went through all the modes of the transfer case from 4hi to 4 low and even neutral then back to 2hi. The truck was still sluggish like the front axles were engaged. I tried to back up and I realized the front axle was nearly frozen up completely. It dragged really bad and made a few clicking and popping sounds. I began turning the wheel all the way left then all the way right with it in 2hi. It would not go all the way right without some forceful turning of the steering wheel until it finally popped rather loud and all was well. Or so I thought. I could smell gear oil inside the cab for a few miles. Last night I needed to use 4wd again and I could here the front end spinning up but the front wheels were not spinning, only the back wheels. I managed to get out of where I was in 2wd but now I have no 4wd. It feels like it is in 4wd based on feedback through the steering wheel but there is no torque at the front wheels at all. Where should I start? The truck has the Dana 44 with 355 gears according to the dealer on a vin check. The truck is a 98 Ram 1500 ext cab 4X4. Help please!!!!

 

nothing more to say than- open up the diff asess the damage. may have a bad u-joint as well

 

i would check the 4wd accuator some times they bend from force

 

put the truck up on 4 jack stands so you can safely crank the truck and operate it in gear.
start by inspecting and turning everything by hand. especially the front axle u-joints, and the front drive shaft u-joints.
remove the cad on the passenger side axle. put a pan under it, as about a cup of gear oil will drain out. spray the 4 little bolts with penetrating oil as they like to break off. inspect the shift fork on the cad, the collar, the 2 axle halves, splines, and the alignment and play in the 2 halves. also inspect and test the 2 vacuum lines. you should have strong vac on one when in 2wd and the other in 4wd.

if necessary, remove the diff cover and check the carrier.

and read this... http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm

 

sounds like hes got more than just a CAD problem, but who knows...

 

That is my gut feeling too but I sure hope you are wrong. Thanks everyone for the advice. I will try to tear into it this weekend.

 

Took the truck to my mechanic. Had him do the intake gasket while he had it. Turns out that the front diff needed a new bearing and a new axle on the passenger side. He also replaced the actuator while he had it apart and double checked all hoses and connections. $1100 and I am on the road again. Took it out in the garden after a heavy rain pulling a small trailer to test it out and it seems to be working fine now. According to him it had gotten locked in partially and caused it to bind up which heated the axle to the point it snapped which explains the grinding noise I would hear on occasion.

 

$1100 should of deff got a manual and did it yourself

 

That included the intake gasket repair and fixing the no-heat issue I was having as well. The axle repair was $700 parts and labor. I should have clarified. Plus no busted knuckles.

 

not as bad i guess