well in my dads truck it is about time to change the transmission fluid and filter and i was wandering if we could drop the pan put the new filter in. then put around 6 quarts in it. and disconnet the trans cooler line were the check valve is. and then start the truck and have someone slowly add fluid and watch the fluid coming out of the cooler line and when it becomes clear cut the truck off and connect the line back. would this work and it shouldnt mess up anything right?

 

that would work, just don't let it run dry. it pumps out faster than you can pour it in. you might have to cut the truck off (or shift to neutral) after each quart or two and fill it back up, then restart. it may also be difficult to tell when the old fluid has all come out. you might just have to guess at when the additional hidden 7-8 or so quarts have come out. you'll also miss the little bit thats sitting in the cooler.

consider this -
when changing fluid and filter, install a universal drain plug for about $5 which makes future changes a breeze.

if the trans has not been serviced regularly, then after about a week - drain, drop, replace filter and fluid a second time. this gets out all the old sludge that the new fluid loosens up.

then change filter and fluid about every year or so or 25K miles and you'll be fine.

 

also we are gonna adjust the bands,delete the check valve and also add another transmission cooler to it

 

just be careful adjusting the bands. INCH pounds....


here's part numbers for the drain plug.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...drainplug.html

 

do u think the bands need adjument its at 140k and we dont know if they have been done before?

 

For the love of god, dont use a cheap-*** torque wrench on the bands. Dont ask me how I know.

Is this basically the way you will be doing the flush? (I know its Camry stuff, but the same concept applies)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=280006

 

purple - how much did that $5 torque wrench cost you in transmission repairs ?
about $1600 ?

 

You'd be better off taking off the other side, the return side, so you get the fluid that's in the cooler, too. Not that it makes all that much difference. And FWIW, this is my preferred method of doing a fluid/filter change.

If you want to get really crafty, pick up some UV dye and a black light. Dump the dye in for about a hundred miles before you do the change, and then with the black light you can know when the old ATF is all out because it'll stop glowing at the outlet.

You might also consider getting a can of cooler flush to clean the cooler. At that mileage it's certainly got some friction material lodged in it.

 

I actually barrowed it off my uncle. Its currently being melted into a Kenmore dishwasher.

'Bout $1682 to be exact. Gotta add tax!

 

My cousin, who repairs tansmissions for a living, recommends not adjusting the bands unless you are having shifting issues. One of those "If it anin't broke, don't fix it" kinda things. He also recommends changing the fluid every other year or every 30K miles, whichever comes first.