Need electrical guru help on e-fans...
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Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
Need electrical guru help on e-fans...
Hey guys,
It seems that in my dual fan setup, the 16" fan has finally bit the dust. I can't get it to turn on anymore. I was thinking since it was 2 years old, that perhaps it has just reached the end of it's life. I will admit though that I'm not the greatest at wiring, so before I buy a new one, I just want to run the wiring diagram by some of you more knowledgeable folks and see if there is something I've done wiring wise that may have contributed to it's death.
Quick background info: I have 2 Proform fans (not the most expensive on the market), one 16" and one 14" routed thru a Flex a lite 31165 controller set to go on at a preset coolant temp. The fans are wired like this:
There is one main POS wire form the controller and one return GROUND wire to the controller. The flex-a-lite controller instructions specify to return the GROUND(s) to the controller unit. From the main POS wire, I have split it into two separate feeders to each fan's POS power connector. I have then run a GROUND from each fan and spliced it into the GROUND on the Flex-a-lite controller. All the wiring is rated to flow as many amps as the entire system should be able to produce. So the individual branch wires to the fan can handle the Amperage put out by both fans combined.
I wired it this way so that if one fan were to fail, the other would continue to work. The controller is rated for 45 amps continuous.
I believe the problem is that the 16" has an intermittent continuity issue in either the connection point, or within the motor itself. My multimeter crackles a bit when the continuity tone is produced when I touch the tips to the connectors inside the fan plug. I have to really work it to get a steady tone. I thought about cutting the plug and wiring a new one, but the wires from the fans have a kind of cloth braiding on them, not the traditional insulated copper wire, and I don't know if cutting it will make it impossible to keep a firm connection on the replacement plug.
The feeder wires all have excellent continuity. Barely touch it at the connectors and it beeps. The 14" fan still works great.
By looking at this diagram above along with what I wrote, does anybody see a big NO-NO that I shouldn't have done? Should I run 2x 14" with matching amperage instead? Just wondering if I should change the wiring so I don't burn up a new fan.
It seems that in my dual fan setup, the 16" fan has finally bit the dust. I can't get it to turn on anymore. I was thinking since it was 2 years old, that perhaps it has just reached the end of it's life. I will admit though that I'm not the greatest at wiring, so before I buy a new one, I just want to run the wiring diagram by some of you more knowledgeable folks and see if there is something I've done wiring wise that may have contributed to it's death.
Quick background info: I have 2 Proform fans (not the most expensive on the market), one 16" and one 14" routed thru a Flex a lite 31165 controller set to go on at a preset coolant temp. The fans are wired like this:
There is one main POS wire form the controller and one return GROUND wire to the controller. The flex-a-lite controller instructions specify to return the GROUND(s) to the controller unit. From the main POS wire, I have split it into two separate feeders to each fan's POS power connector. I have then run a GROUND from each fan and spliced it into the GROUND on the Flex-a-lite controller. All the wiring is rated to flow as many amps as the entire system should be able to produce. So the individual branch wires to the fan can handle the Amperage put out by both fans combined.
I wired it this way so that if one fan were to fail, the other would continue to work. The controller is rated for 45 amps continuous.
I believe the problem is that the 16" has an intermittent continuity issue in either the connection point, or within the motor itself. My multimeter crackles a bit when the continuity tone is produced when I touch the tips to the connectors inside the fan plug. I have to really work it to get a steady tone. I thought about cutting the plug and wiring a new one, but the wires from the fans have a kind of cloth braiding on them, not the traditional insulated copper wire, and I don't know if cutting it will make it impossible to keep a firm connection on the replacement plug.
The feeder wires all have excellent continuity. Barely touch it at the connectors and it beeps. The 14" fan still works great.
By looking at this diagram above along with what I wrote, does anybody see a big NO-NO that I shouldn't have done? Should I run 2x 14" with matching amperage instead? Just wondering if I should change the wiring so I don't burn up a new fan.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
HeyYou
I have swapped the feeds and nothing. The big fan did come one once today but after I replaced all the stuff I moved to work on them, it went out again, which is why I'm thinking the fan or connector is having an issue. Did you see anything wildly wrong with the wiring?
I have swapped the feeds and nothing. The big fan did come one once today but after I replaced all the stuff I moved to work on them, it went out again, which is why I'm thinking the fan or connector is having an issue. Did you see anything wildly wrong with the wiring?
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,393
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
What kind of amperage is the controller rated for? If that is indeed the variable speed guy, are your fans designed for that type of behavior?
If you direct wire the fan, will it run?
It really sounds like you might have a bad connection in the wiring somewhere, if it is on the external part, you should be able to fix that.... if it is internal to the fan, not so sure..... can you get it apart to inspect it?
Just because it shows continuity also doesn't necessarily mean there is a good enough connection to flow the current required to run the fan.... might have a look at your splices, and where wires are crimped in connectors.
If you direct wire the fan, will it run?
It really sounds like you might have a bad connection in the wiring somewhere, if it is on the external part, you should be able to fix that.... if it is internal to the fan, not so sure..... can you get it apart to inspect it?
Just because it shows continuity also doesn't necessarily mean there is a good enough connection to flow the current required to run the fan.... might have a look at your splices, and where wires are crimped in connectors.
Veteran
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Appleton, WI
You could have a short in one of the fans that is causing the other not to run when the controller turns them on. I would recommend using a splice block (bus bar)and running your fans to it and then run to the controller. Then if you have a problem it's a matter of disconnecting one fan or the other. Not a lot of messing around with cheap plastic connectors.
If both fans work when connected directly to the battery then it's time to look at one of the three components in pairs.
If both fans work when connected directly to the battery then it's time to look at one of the three components in pairs.
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Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 10
From: Near Charlotte, NC
Use continuity check to find wiring points but you need to switch to resistance (ohms) scale to really see what is going on. a crackly chirp sound won't help you much.
But I would say you're on the right track bad wire or partially bad winding in motor.
That wire sounds like TGGT or similar high temp wire its got a fiberglass outer jacket with a silicone inner jacket.
What kind of plug?
Stripping and putting a new plug on should be allright but some heat shrink tube over the braid will keep it in place and keep it from unraveling.
But I would say you're on the right track bad wire or partially bad winding in motor.
That wire sounds like TGGT or similar high temp wire its got a fiberglass outer jacket with a silicone inner jacket.
What kind of plug?
Stripping and putting a new plug on should be allright but some heat shrink tube over the braid will keep it in place and keep it from unraveling.