doesnt necessarily have to be STARTED in neutral. Next time you get a chance try this: start in park, shift to neutral (get past reverse before it has time to kick in) and let it sit there for around 10-15 seconds. Then put it in drive (or reverse, or whatever is suited to the situation).

If that clears up your tranny problem, then i would assume that the previous owner removed the check valve (not a bad thing in my book). If it annoys you to have to do that, you can do what Unregistered said and put the remote filter there. Honestly, anythings better than having the stock check valve there

You sure that the fluid read good? Were you in neutral when you checked? Not that i dont believe you, I just find it counterintuitive that a leaking transmission wasn't low on fluid (stranger things have happened though).

Were you on level ground when you checked? (i'm not saying bust out a level and check, just as level as you can find) If the front of the truck was on lower ground than the back, the dipstick will read high

 

Or if you're paranoid like me, shift it into drive for a few seconds before reverse. There's a piston in there that likes to **** in the bore if there's no fluid ahead of it... and once it does, it's teardown time.

Boy am I glad that my old stocker is gone and I don't have to worry about these things any more. I'm so glad that I pulled on my PATC t-shirt this morning.

 

It should be noted, that in the first paragraph of this post he is speaking of shifting to drive AFTER letting it sit in neutral for a few seconds.

Didnt know about that potential problem, and am glad you mentioned it. I am paranoid (like you) and will have to add this to my start up routine

(arent dodge trannies fun?)

 

The first automatic I ever blew up was a 727. It's strange that the aftermarket has known how to make these critters bulletproof since just about forever but the factory hasn't bothered to do it themselves. My policy is pretty simple though: If you buy a Chrysler with an automatic, plan on rebuilding. (Tangentially: Methinks there was a reason that Jeep designed their V-8's for the Chrysler 727 but then installed the GM TH400 instead even though it meant fiddling the torque converter housing to fit. I'm glad they did even though it meant finding good empty cases was a chore.)

BTW: It's the rear band servo piston that tends to **** in its bore, if you are curious to google it up.

 

Those th400's are as close to bulletproof as you can get without actually lining the case with kevlar, lol. Had a 76 chevy with one, i sent it to hell and back without an issue (miss that truck, sold it when i blew the engine and rear end up in the same stupid stunt).

BTW: where can I get the remote filter for the check valve (or, actually, lack thereof)? Is there a kit made, or do I get the pleasure of busting out the duct tape and zip ties for some more redneck engineering/fabrication?

Thanks for the piston info... off to google

 

It's my all-time favorite transmission.

I got mine from PATC, their P/N 76D, but I'd guess that most any of the big aftermarket outfits like Summit, Jegs, etc. would have them. I like to buy transmission stuff from PATC even if I can save a buck or two elsewhere just because I think it important to support good folks doing good work.

Oh yeah: Be sure to get the flow direction right or things go wrong fast when that anti-drainback valve is forced closed. If you're in the line the factory check valve was in (which is best as it will keep crud out of the cooler), flow is from the trans toward the radiator. On the Derale part (the one PATC sells) the housing is embossed with In and Out so it's pretty straightforward.

 

Thanks man, I'll look into that asap

 

Thank you everyone.

I did what you said and ran it for 10 seconds in neutral before I put it in drive and it never went over 1000 rpms moving out and that was jumping forward. I was expecting it to be sluggish again but it surprised me and took right off.

I'm debating atm whether I would rather have the filter put on or leave it off. It's not hard to pop it in neutral for a few seconds just when I'm in a rush it's hard to remember to do that.

Not exactly get the level out level but as level as I can get here. Slightly downhill but shouldn't have affected it that much and yes it was in neutral.

I wonder if the leaky mess isn't from now but from when the original owner put the aux cooler on?! I guess we'll find out in about a week and a half when the guys take it apart to fix it.

 

Some of the later models came from the factory with an aux cooler if you got the tow package (like mine) the previous owner likely just removed the check valve if this is the case. I think it was 98 and up, but I'm not sure. Glad you got that part figured out. Hows the starting problem?

 

Just had a thought: if you were driving for 6 years and the tranny just started doing this, its likely that your check valve is still there and is clogged. If the previous owner removed it, you would have noticed this from day one.

By putting the tranny in neutral you are allowing the line pressure to the cooler to build up and overcome the clog where it will then travel through the cooler to your torque convertor and fill it up.

I say this because a clogged check valve has eaten more than its share of these transmissions, and if this is the case, it needs to be looked into yesterday.