before you start grinding dude, let me check out that second passage, and see if my temp readings come back to pre-FI...

It should be noted that the second passage (the one nearing the center of the manifold) doesn't expose on the bottom.. I reckon I could break out the calipers and figure how deep it extends compared to the actual depth of the passage, but it's not that important to me to be honest..

 

Newer models only have one temp sensor. It was either '97 or '98 when they just switched to one.

 

It had to be 98 because my 97 has 2. They also went along and removed the center divider in the kegger.

 

I don't know about that man.. I'm not disagreeing, I'm just saying that I don't know how the math works out..

I have a third gen, and the gauge doesn't give temps.. It gives ranges.. Before the gap, I would run somewhere around 3/8, or just shy of the half mark.. I run a touch over the 1/4 mark most often now.. The reading is definitely off, but if that is a constant I'd be surprised. What I DO think it will cause is a lot wilder fluctuations- meaning, it will move to hot quickly without much warning if your engine is overheating.. I could be wrong though..

 

I would imagine he was referring to the use of the die grinder on the current CTS location, not moving the CTS and plug.

 

Oh well, just dont take any crack that day and you'll do just fine.

 

take pics on what your doing because if it works ill want to do it if it fixies my heating problems

 

One has nothing to do with the other!

 

to the immediate left of the upright brass nipple, you can see the temperature sensor/sender..

to the immediate right of the 'stat port, you can see where I capped off the second port. it's at 12 o'clock between the brass nipple pointing to you, and the 'stat port..

I intend on leaving the current sensor/sender in place, and simply pulling that cap and inserting another sensor/sender in that port, and pulling the wiring harness over to it..

If it extends deeper into the passage, I should get better readings- and solve the (small) issue..

I do have a questions for you fellas that know these engines a lot better than me: Is that the sole temperature sensor for these motors, or is there another somewhere else? I ask, because, I've slapped my laptop on the thing via usb-to-obdII, and the engine runs anywhere from 185-195 during normal operation.. But the gauge doesn't agree.. the fan controllers probe DOES agree.. I'm going to get confused if there isn't another sensor somewhere..

 

A temp sensor getting a bad reading wont cause your heater to not work!