Is there a diy on a fuel injector service or is it just basically taking out the fuel rails and injectors cleaning them and replacing the o rings

 

what makes you think the fuel injectors need cleaning?

 

most people using a jewelry cleaner for the fuel injectors and I think use compressed air to blow the fuel rail out, not sure on the fuel rail though

 

my boss has a durango 5.2 and he had the service done at the dealership for 250 and i drove it before and after and it was a good bit of differance and his has 200k on the motor mine has 165k

 

try some seamfoam work so well

 

There is no DIY in existence for cleaning injectors that I'm aware of. There's only one proper method to use and, I used to provide this service as well as rebuilding them with a very good friend of mine out west. The injector is to be removed from the engine and, the entire set is tested electrically first to verify integrity of the coil. If the coil is open, partially shorting to case, there's no sense in cleaning.

In those cases, we open the injectors up and replace everything inside with high quality components such as SS, PTFE, 100% PTFE coated Cu - no cheap chinese aluminum pot metal junk and no bare Al (aluminum) wire either. All the filter baskets are replaced as is the electrical connectors in some cases. This is a complete rebuild.

Once all the mechanical parts and electrical parts are replaced, they are reassembled and tested for both flow rate and pressure rating. To a degree, they can be customized for certain applications such as Top Fuel Alcohol or, other racing application which involves high compression.

Now, in the case where, the innards are good but, just need a good cleaning, all eight are placed onto a machine which has hookups for a cleaning fluid along with a wiring harness setup so that we can power them up and actually open and close them while running cleaner through them.

Once the spray pattern returns to normal, they are then placed onto the final testing machine to where, a final rinsing solution is pumped through. They are then transferred over to the flow and psi testing station to which, we run simulated fuel through them and measure the flow of each injector to ensure that it's matched with the others and to verify lbs / hr rating before shipping them out.

CM

 

Now, to clean those fuel rails, and, you really should because, the OEM junk is prone to rusting on the inside and, this rust flakes off and ends up clogging the injector baskets or the valve inside.

Remove both rails and, once you've got them off, you're going to want to scope the insides of them out to see what condition the inner walls look like.

If, the walls are really corroded, you will need to insert aggregate into them and shake for hours. They will need to be rinsed out with solvent only such as IPA, Acetone, DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED OILS to clean or flush them out. I'll tell you why in a moment.

Now, once they have been cleaned 100%, you're going to need to acid etch the insides prior to coating them with a high-quality, fuel resistant epoxy. I've got a kit at my shop out west but, I can't recall who made it. You'll need to look around for a fuel tank repair or, fuel rail repair kit.

This kit will contain an acid, the rinsing agent (BASE) / neutralizer and the epoxy kit A/B fuel resistant epoxy.

NOTE: If you had used any petroleum based flush product to clean out the rails, it would prevent the acid from etching into the metal and, it would also prevent the epoxy from adhering to the package walls.

Once the rails are acid etched and thoroughly rinsed out, you must bake them out to evaporate all moisture. Bake out in a conventional oven on low for one hour and allow to cool prior to coating.

Mix up the epoxy per OEM recommendations spec sheet and, start filling them and roll the material until it's coated 100%. Watch out at the Schrader Valve port that the epoxy does not seal that up. Either remove it completely or, keep the valve up. This will prevent the epoxy from settling into the valve opening thus sealing it shut.

Now, the other two items that should be replaced are the OEM lines. The ends are bad and, infamous for rusting and contaminating the fuel rails and injectors. Either take the line off and, clean it 100% and coat that as well with epoxy or, simply remove and replace the flex line.

There's one more hard line that runs from the firewall under the driver side all the way to the FUEL PUMP. This line is another source of issue. Particularly, the fitting junction- rust.

Remove and replace as necessary.

This should provide you with enough information to getting your fuel delivery system back in tip top shape.

CM

 

Plain old gasoline has had injector cleaner added since the 1990s by order of the US Govt. Any injector cleaning beyond that is a waste of cash.....

Dusty

 

damn...

and I reckon I'll take the liberty to add:

Once you get all the rust out, move to New Mexico or Arizona where your only concern for rust will be the floggin' impurities in the fuel..

If rails weren't so dang expensive I swear to lil' baby Jesus in a tuxedo shirt I'd just swap them for new.. and all lines included..

just..... damn...

 

Walmart's with a service center has a injector clean for 25.00 and takes them 20 mins