I can get both from eBay for $100 or just the sensor from Napa or Autozone for $100.

I also noticed that a lot are remans... I hate buying re-manufactured parts.

I only have 1st and second gear with the harness unplugged. I was thinking of just changing the harness and both the solenoids attached to it, then the gov sensor and solenoid for piece of mind..

I'd hate to drain the fluid, change one part and find out it was the other.

I don't want to keep dropping the VB...

Thanks for the help y'all. I need to see what sensor I have, looks like they changed it up in 1999.

 

For the governor sensor and solenoid, you don't have to drop the whole valve body.

DO NOT use reman parts. You will be in there again a lot sooner than you would like. Get NEW parts. Something else to consider would be the GM sensor/solenoid conversion. Runs almost 300 bucks though I think..... solves a lot of the problems with the dodge system. (self cleaning pressure solenoid, and sensor that doesn't saturate at WOT)

 

I don't think anything is wrong with my Governor Solenoid. Since i'm familiar with Solenoids (always just copper wrapped around a ferrous metal to push a piston) I decided to take it apart and clean it. I saw people were selling re-manufactured ones on eBay for $80.
So I figured at worst I could re-wrap the copper.

I took mine apart and it had tons of metal shavings all inside of it. I got it really clean, checked it, with 12VDC applied the piston moves. The little check ball inside of it was stuck in the aluminum part of the sensor.. So I just cleaned everything really well and put it back together, tested it,and I'm confident it is working. So I'm just going to buy the pressure sensor, I took that apart only to find out it is 100% non serviceable..

I took pics and I will put the step by step process up.. In case anyone else wants to see whats inside the Governor Solenoid.

I hope, that the pressure sensor is it, I have to wait for a new one to come in, no one had it in stock. Though I didn't try dodge, but I never really buy factory parts.

 

Don't use Reman sensors/solenoids. They don't have a good track record.

Were the metal shavings leftovers from before? Or are they post-rebuild shavings???? That might not be a good sign....

 

Pre-Rebuild... The truck drove maybe 1/10 of a mile post rebuild. The pan was clean and not a flake on the magnet.

I hear what your saying but $135 is just a crazy price for that little solenoid. I can get at it and remove it in 10 minutes. This truck is my third vehicle and I just don't have the funds to keep buying stuff that high dollar. If the sensor fixes the problem then I'm golden, if not I have bigger problems. I'll probably replace the solenoid anyway when I change the filter, which I plan on doing at 5,000 miles. post rebuild.

I got a new sensor coming. Not reman, I didn't buy a reman solenoid, I just took mine apart ande cleaned it very well, put it back together and tested it. Who knows maybe the check ball will stick again, though there are no magnatized shavings this time.

 

Yeah, some of those pieces/parts command a premium price..... something that looks like it should cost five bucks, goes for 50..... or 500....... some of the prices shock the bejesus right out of me. One of the reasons I don't drive imports........ (although, the Conquest was technically a dodge..... parts for that were hideously expensive too....)

 

Was the band anchor installed ? I can not see the anchor in the pic of your tranny ? Look's to be a stock strut ? With the (518) the anchor and strut would fall out and she wont shift out of first without light throttle and higher RPM'S. Once in second you have to nurse it to third or she will downshifts back to first.

 

Oh ,thats not even my pic, I took that one of the diy to cause me and him used the same band..

The band is on and at 72inch-pds (then backed of 2-7/8ths a turn).

I can get second with the 8-pin unplugged and 2nd is impossible to get without the front band.

Oh and HeyYou, I decided to go ahead and replace both parts. I found a good deal, (both new for $99)..

So I'm just doing them both.
From searching deeper into this site i found out how to manually cause the solenoids to engage via the PCM.

So if the new parts dont fix my problem then I will get a pressure gauge and start searching more.

I just hope I put nothing is wrong inside the VB..
Might as well just replace with new parts for piece of mind...

I'll post again after I install the new parts..

 

Not tranny your pic's. Your wording sounded like it was. My bad. I had a stock strut and anchor fall out and i still had seconcd just had to be nurse it to third with a light pedal. Also when the strut falls out it can jam the linkage sitting ontop the VB. Was recommended to back off only 2 turns on both bands.

 

I backed off two on the rear, I saw a couple of people saying 1.5-2 on the front so I may tigthen it a little, I made marks on my case at the 12, 6 and halfway between the 1 and 2 o'clock positions as to make setting it easier..

I was gonna put a picture of my set-up in but I changed the picture because I was having problems with "tinypic"..