Changing 5.9 Oil Sender (Info and Pic)
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Okay, so others can benefit from my struggles, here's a quick how-to on the 5.9 Oil Pressure Sending Unit swap...

Instead of being smarter / nicer like Ford, Dodge engineers decided to locate the oil sending unit and distributor on the rear of the block, probably just to make us enjoy working on them. The oil sender is located just to the passenger side of the distributor. On the electrical connector, you'll see a red tab. You have to pull this tab out first to release the connector. But, you're not done yet. You also have to squeeze the connector slightly to release it's hold on a few little tabs on the sensor, before it will slip off of the unit.
Then you can now slide on the special sending unit socket that you bought from your local auto parts store earlier. What? You didn't buy a socket? Well, you have to because a standard socket is not deep enough to clear the electrical connector on top. Some say they used a wrench to remove the sender... I'm not sure how they did this, unless they bent a wrench into a special tool, and used 1/8" turns for a half hour. Save yourself some headache and buy the socket. I got mine from Checker Auto Parts (Schucks and Kragen in other parts of the country). The size is 1 1/16" and mine was $9.29.
Oil Sender Unit: GP Sorensen Part # OPS174 $34.94 @ Advance Auto
.
Okay, so others can benefit from my struggles, here's a quick how-to on the 5.9 Oil Pressure Sending Unit swap...

Instead of being smarter / nicer like Ford, Dodge engineers decided to locate the oil sending unit and distributor on the rear of the block, probably just to make us enjoy working on them. The oil sender is located just to the passenger side of the distributor. On the electrical connector, you'll see a red tab. You have to pull this tab out first to release the connector. But, you're not done yet. You also have to squeeze the connector slightly to release it's hold on a few little tabs on the sensor, before it will slip off of the unit.
Then you can now slide on the special sending unit socket that you bought from your local auto parts store earlier. What? You didn't buy a socket? Well, you have to because a standard socket is not deep enough to clear the electrical connector on top. Some say they used a wrench to remove the sender... I'm not sure how they did this, unless they bent a wrench into a special tool, and used 1/8" turns for a half hour. Save yourself some headache and buy the socket. I got mine from Checker Auto Parts (Schucks and Kragen in other parts of the country). The size is 1 1/16" and mine was $9.29.
Oil Sender Unit: GP Sorensen Part # OPS174 $34.94 @ Advance Auto
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Hopefully, your new sensor will cure any irratic oil pressure readings on your gauge. I'm back to the drawing board on mine, because my problem still exists. My gauge will start out reading 43 psi at first, but after driving a short distance, will drop down to 20-25 psi and sit there for the rest of the drive. Mechanical gauge time.
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Hopefully, your new sensor will cure any irratic oil pressure readings on your gauge. I'm back to the drawing board on mine, because my problem still exists. My gauge will start out reading 43 psi at first, but after driving a short distance, will drop down to 20-25 psi and sit there for the rest of the drive. Mechanical gauge time.
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Thanks. Your picture gave me an idea about where to look for the oil sending unit.. Still couldn't see the oil sending unit from above. I found it directly in back of the EGR valve and about 3 inches to the passenger side of the distributor. I looked from below and think I was able to view a portion of it. Laid in over the engine and was barely able to reach and disconnect the wire leads. Still could not see it. It was all by feel. I did know from some previous send units on other vehicles that there might be a need for a special socket and had inquired and purchased the same at my local NAPA store when I purchased the part. Hope it solves my problem - after about 20 miles of steady 65 mph driving I've noticed a drop in pressure from about 40 to 20. At stop or parking the needle would immediately drop to 0, but would resume at 20 with a little engine rpm. Temperature never increased. No noises that were unusual. The sending unit seemed the most likely problem although the price to replace the oil pump and related filters and gaskets would not have been much different. (The sending unit and socket was about $50.00.) It was a more difficult job to replace because of the location. Now I need to drive and see if the problem is resolved. I will know Sunday late when I report to work with a 30 mile drive. If not it will be the oil pump next.
ORIGINAL: zeekxxx
Hmmm Thanks for the pic. Thats the main reason I read this forum is to pick up little tid-bits like that.
Nice picture
Hmmm Thanks for the pic. Thats the main reason I read this forum is to pick up little tid-bits like that.
Nice picture
I changed my sending unit but the oil pressure is till low. It stays at 40 the whole time even when accelerating. It use to go to almost 80 when driving then 40 at idle. The book says its still in the safe zone but i'm worried the oil pump is going or screen could be clogged.Does anyone no if I should let it go since it's in the "safe" zone or trying changing the pump? Thanks
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Ok you do this at your own risk but here is a true story with a happy ending.
My buddy had a old jeep that had low oil pressure problems and we thought it mihgt be the oil passage ways in the block was plugged. So we bought a bas *** can of engine oil cleaner. Its a clear liquid that you run in your engine for 10-15 mins and then flush it out. You cant drive the car with it in there but you let it idle for awhile. After we dumped the oil and put new oil in his pressure went way up.
Was nice.
About a week later we did a 2nd oil change to make sure we got all the clear liquid out.
good luck
My buddy had a old jeep that had low oil pressure problems and we thought it mihgt be the oil passage ways in the block was plugged. So we bought a bas *** can of engine oil cleaner. Its a clear liquid that you run in your engine for 10-15 mins and then flush it out. You cant drive the car with it in there but you let it idle for awhile. After we dumped the oil and put new oil in his pressure went way up.
Was nice.
About a week later we did a 2nd oil change to make sure we got all the clear liquid out.
good luck




