Truck is all done but. . .
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2011
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I installee a 180 stat when I did my plenum fix. I never see the temp gauge touch 200, it runs at 170 180 I have efans also. But as far as your truck I would just let it idle and rev it up a little. use a glove and grab the thermostat hose and see if its still stiff if so then its the t stat
Before I did my plenum fix with stock t stat I was running about 220 230. For some odd reason these trucks like to run hot
Before I did my plenum fix with stock t stat I was running about 220 230. For some odd reason these trucks like to run hot
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Joined: Feb 2011
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No luck. Still stuck at around 230. I don't know what else to do exact to get a new thermostat and see if that's it. The coolant level is high as it can go; can't add any more to it. I will try tomorrow.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 3
From: Cape Carteret NC
yeah dude, it sounds like your 'stat... if the rad cap is tight, and the engine is at operating temp, that upper hose should be full and very difficult to squeeze.. It sounds like there is no flow.
fwiw: I've made a habit of testing every new stat before I put 'em in.. boil some water on the stove and drop it in.. get a flashlight and a fork.. when small bubbles start rising in little columns, hook the stat with the fork and pull it off the bottom of the pot and shine a flashlight on it, hopefully watching it open..
here is the part most folks leave off: when it is at a full boil, the stat should be opened at it's max.. pull it completely out of the water, and watch it close.. then put it back in- open- out, close.. sometimes they bind on themselves.. this way you will see if that is happening to yours..
if it checks out, I highly rec drilling two small holes in the gate.. on opposite sides, and no larger than 1/32".. this helps air purge quicker, as there is flow through the stat even when it is closed (though not enough to cool the engine excessively though)..
another thing: on the neck of the stat housing, there is a little tab that rests under the accessory bracket that makes this job a PITA.. you can grind that baby off, and turn any future stat swaps into a ten minute job..
good luck!!!
fwiw: I've made a habit of testing every new stat before I put 'em in.. boil some water on the stove and drop it in.. get a flashlight and a fork.. when small bubbles start rising in little columns, hook the stat with the fork and pull it off the bottom of the pot and shine a flashlight on it, hopefully watching it open..
here is the part most folks leave off: when it is at a full boil, the stat should be opened at it's max.. pull it completely out of the water, and watch it close.. then put it back in- open- out, close.. sometimes they bind on themselves.. this way you will see if that is happening to yours..
if it checks out, I highly rec drilling two small holes in the gate.. on opposite sides, and no larger than 1/32".. this helps air purge quicker, as there is flow through the stat even when it is closed (though not enough to cool the engine excessively though)..
another thing: on the neck of the stat housing, there is a little tab that rests under the accessory bracket that makes this job a PITA.. you can grind that baby off, and turn any future stat swaps into a ten minute job..
good luck!!!
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
yeah dude, it sounds like your 'stat... if the rad cap is tight, and the engine is at operating temp, that upper hose should be full and very difficult to squeeze.. It sounds like there is no flow.
fwiw: I've made a habit of testing every new stat before I put 'em in.. boil some water on the stove and drop it in.. get a flashlight and a fork.. when small bubbles start rising in little columns, hook the stat with the fork and pull it off the bottom of the pot and shine a flashlight on it, hopefully watching it open..
here is the part most folks leave off: when it is at a full boil, the stat should be opened at it's max.. pull it completely out of the water, and watch it close.. then put it back in- open- out, close.. sometimes they bind on themselves.. this way you will see if that is happening to yours..
if it checks out, I highly rec drilling two small holes in the gate.. on opposite sides, and no larger than 1/32".. this helps air purge quicker, as there is flow through the stat even when it is closed (though not enough to cool the engine excessively though)..
another thing: on the neck of the stat housing, there is a little tab that rests under the accessory bracket that makes this job a PITA.. you can grind that baby off, and turn any future stat swaps into a ten minute job..
good luck!!!
fwiw: I've made a habit of testing every new stat before I put 'em in.. boil some water on the stove and drop it in.. get a flashlight and a fork.. when small bubbles start rising in little columns, hook the stat with the fork and pull it off the bottom of the pot and shine a flashlight on it, hopefully watching it open..
here is the part most folks leave off: when it is at a full boil, the stat should be opened at it's max.. pull it completely out of the water, and watch it close.. then put it back in- open- out, close.. sometimes they bind on themselves.. this way you will see if that is happening to yours..
if it checks out, I highly rec drilling two small holes in the gate.. on opposite sides, and no larger than 1/32".. this helps air purge quicker, as there is flow through the stat even when it is closed (though not enough to cool the engine excessively though)..
another thing: on the neck of the stat housing, there is a little tab that rests under the accessory bracket that makes this job a PITA.. you can grind that baby off, and turn any future stat swaps into a ten minute job..
good luck!!!
Amateur
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
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From: Little Elm, TX
If you change the stat and still is running hot, then check you fan clutch, if it is spinning too freely it may not be spinning fast enough with the motor. Have you replaced the waterpump? Have you flushed your radiator? If it has clogged passages it will not cool properly.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Professional
Joined: Feb 2011
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No luck; doing the same thing. Temp. right at 230. I believe I will just take it to the shop. Tired of fooling with it. The question is, is it safe enough to drive a few miles running at that temp.
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Both stats can't be bad. I'm going to test it. Someone suggested that the fan clutch may not be turning sufficiently but it was working just fine before I took it out and it is working just fine now. It is too much of a pain getting to get to the stat. I think I will let the shop deal with it. So, is it okay to drive it a few miles (about 10) running at around 230?