The engine was still pretty warm from earlier. I ran the engine 10 to 15 minutes WITHOUT THE STAT. It stayed on that mark like I said not even half way between 130 and 200. So, coolant was definitely flowing. I will install the stat I tested with boiling water. I know it works.

It may be just turning that plug in the opposite direction was the culprit. I hope so. I will install the stat and give it another whirl. I will have to do later on this afternoon, as I have a doctor's appointment here in just a bit. Will give an update later on this afternoon. Thanks for all your help.

 

When I starting taking the stat housing off, coolant leaked out everywhere, not too too much though.

 

Well I don't know what in the world is going on. When I took the stat out, it ran as cool as a cucumber. Now that I've put it back in, it is doing the same thing as before. Running around 230. I don't know what else to do, except to replace the fan clutch, but wouldn't it run hot no matter if the stat is in or not if the fan clutch is bad?

 

it will if you run it a LONG time.. otherwise, it will likely kick a 1281 at you.

this isn't exactly right, but it will do a good job of demonstrating: when you start your truck with a healthy cooling system, your 'stat limits the amount of coolant flow, and only allows more through when you start to overwhelm the ability of the engine to dissipate the heat off of what is trapped in the block and making it through the by-pass.. If that stat isn't there, the engine- as soon as it starts- will be circulating coolant as if the stat is wide open, which means the coolant flowing through the block hardly has time to warm up before it's going through the radiator again, and cooling off what little heat it has picked up..

running too cool is a problem- your engine won't achieve closed loop, and you will run rich- not to mention your never going to achieve proper detonation on an engine that is too cool..

at some point, the engine will start to heat the coolant, but it will take a long while.. if you were on the highway running at a constant speed, it may likely NEVER heat the coolant to suitable temp.. in town though, stop and go with no fan forcing air through the radiator, it could happen fairly quickly- like within 20 miles or so.. if you are moving above 40mph, it likely won't ever overheat though..

do a search for efans... this is your opportunity to do one.. I personally rank that mod in my top three..

 

I can understand why the engine is running cool without a stat. However, with a working stat (I know because I tested it), it wants to run hot. It's like the stat is not doing it's job. Either that, or the fan clutch. Since I know the stat is working, it has to be the fan, RIGHT? I just checked at Advance Auto and they have them in stock. I've read some on the efans and sounds like too much trouble. Too many things to have to worry with.

 

I thought you had already determined the fan was bad..

chances are, when the truck is moving (and forcing air through the radiator) you won't run as hot.. you'll heat quickly when you stop though..

go get the fan.. that is likely your problem.

 

I figured it was the fan through the process of elimination. Only other thing it could be. Fan isn't turning well enough to cool down down to where needed (even though it sure seems like it to me, but I could be deceived). It runs well enough to keep at around 230, but not where it is supposed to be. I will get a new fan clutch and put it on tomorrow. If that doesn't fix the problem, then I have no idea what else to do. I would like to convert over to an efan but don't have that kind of money right now; maybe later.

 

Efans are not that expensive just go to junk yard and find one out of a car that is about the same size as your radiator. Its cheaper than buying a brand new one, the wiring is very simple. Im sure there is a thread around here some place to help you wire it up