bleeding brakes long weekend
bleeding brakes long weekend
ok so after 2 days i have the drums off and shoes changed and new drums on...now i go to bleed the brakes. well i start at passenger rear. ( start from the furthest from master cylinder right? ) and bleed it for 5 minutes at first i hear air come out then nothing never got fluid so i move to driver rear do it for 5 minutes and get nothing again air at first then nothing. ok i move to front air then fluid within 2 times of cracking open bleeder valve. so i go to back it down the driveway and do that a few times the front work but i feel air in the lines obviosly. so i got to bleed the brakes again right rear bleed bleed bleed and nothing. move to driver POW fluid right off the back... i tried passenger again and still nothing...WTF i am so confused. i replaced front calipers pads and rotors, out back i got 1 ton chevy wheel cylinders and new shoes and drums... how long should it take to get fluid back there.
btw i got the tie rods and pitman arm idler arm on ok gonna wait on ball joints till i get my new upper c arms and lift spindles....speaking of which i still have play in my wheel where could it be comming from my steering box has been adjusted and like stated new steering parts
btw i got the tie rods and pitman arm idler arm on ok gonna wait on ball joints till i get my new upper c arms and lift spindles....speaking of which i still have play in my wheel where could it be comming from my steering box has been adjusted and like stated new steering parts
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
If you are getting fluid to one side, you should very shortly get fluid to the other in the back as well. It DOES take a while to fill the lines, and wheel cylinders though.
Grab a friend, stick 'em in the seat. Crawl under the truck, and crack open the passenger side bleeder, hold your finger on it, to prevent it from sucking air while your friend pumps the pedal. You should be able to feel the alternating pressure/suction on your fingertip. (if the cylinders are new, put some teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder valve to prevent it from sucking air right thru the threads.)
Once you get good fluid flow, and no major air bubbles, close the bleeder valve, have your friend pump the pedal three times, and hold pressure on it. (harder the better.) When he is holding the pedal down, crack open the bleeder. This will shock any remaining air bubbles trapped in the system loose, and get them out as well. Do that several times on each side in the rear. (on the other side, it won't take nearly as much effort....)
If you stop getting flow to the rear, pump the brakes up nice and hard, have your friend hold the pedal, and crack open one of the FRONT brakes. (resets the proportioning valve.
)
Do the same on the front brakes. Get the rears adjusted up nice, and you should have a nice pedal, and good brakes.
Grab a friend, stick 'em in the seat. Crawl under the truck, and crack open the passenger side bleeder, hold your finger on it, to prevent it from sucking air while your friend pumps the pedal. You should be able to feel the alternating pressure/suction on your fingertip. (if the cylinders are new, put some teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder valve to prevent it from sucking air right thru the threads.)
Once you get good fluid flow, and no major air bubbles, close the bleeder valve, have your friend pump the pedal three times, and hold pressure on it. (harder the better.) When he is holding the pedal down, crack open the bleeder. This will shock any remaining air bubbles trapped in the system loose, and get them out as well. Do that several times on each side in the rear. (on the other side, it won't take nearly as much effort....)
If you stop getting flow to the rear, pump the brakes up nice and hard, have your friend hold the pedal, and crack open one of the FRONT brakes. (resets the proportioning valve.
)Do the same on the front brakes. Get the rears adjusted up nice, and you should have a nice pedal, and good brakes.
